Such a long journey to Kathmandu

By Anand Gurung

The bus rattled through the empty road very fast. The bankers were now talking jubilantly, smiling and looking forward to their reaching home after a long day in office. Outside it was getting dark and passing were the paddy and mustard fields with occasional houses and beyond them the hills with sun behind them.

A while later the bus screeched into a highway bazaar. People were out for shopping in the market. There was crowd and noise. The bus waited there for some time, but as there were no passengers, the conductor banged on the door once and whistled; and the bus started moving from there. But it had hardly gained pace when the driver slammed the breaks again. A young white couple followed by a Nepali man boarded the bus in a hurry. They were panting, as they had to run to get the bus. We were sitting in the back and the front seats were empty, as most of the passengers had gotten off in Dhulikhel. After considering few seats, the girl sat on one and offered the Nepali man who we thought was their guide to sit beside her. The other guy sat in the seat just across from them. There were rows of seats between us.

"She's pretty, isn't she?" the middle-aged man said to his young colleague seated beside him after the bus took up speed again.

"I am sure that Nepali is a guide. You know they get to meet a lot of these foreigners. They go trekking, rafting and some also fall in love. That's the interesting part of their job," the young colleague summed up. "I have heard rafting guides even marrying these white girls and later settled in their country."

"Maybe," the middle-aged man said without caring much for what was said, "you know that girl reminds me of an American girl whom I traveled with from Gorakhpur to Chitwan."

He passed his hand over his silky hair where it had turned gray. He looked at the blonde girl with his sharp, keen eyes whenever she turned to her friend to talk.

"Oh, you never told us about it!" the young colleague smiled, "Tell us what happened, Dhurva dai? Did you two have a good time?" He then laughed with his friends.

Still fixing his gaze at the front, the middle-aged man said turning to him, "I would tell you all about it, but you have to promise that you won't laugh at me okay."

"Okay, Dhurva dai, I won't laugh even if it is funny," the young colleague said, and then turning to other guys, said, "listen, guys, Dhurva dai is telling an interesting story."

"It must have been back 20 years ago or so. I was with the forest department back then and had recently been posted to Terai. Democracy had not arrived and things were pretty strict," the middle-aged man said, and then directly addressing the young colleague beside him, "Oh bhai, I was young then, maybe pretty much of your age, what you are 25, maybe not that young, but still with a zest of doing something in life. I had also been newly married, but I had not been able to give much time to my wife. I used to feel very bad because of this and at times a bit anxious too. I was sorry to have left her alone to the mercy of my large family in Chitwan. But what could I do."

His colleagues were interested in his talk now and turned towards him, patiently listening to what he said. I was seated just behind the story-teller, and could clearly follow what he said. The bus was going very fast and it must have also been because there were few passengers, the bus jerked us more.

"Back then, I also had to regularly go to India to make purchases for the office," the middle-aged man continued, but still keeping his eyes at the three passengers at the front. "And while returning from one such trip to Lucknow, I met two American girls at a railway station. At that time the railway line ended in Gorkahpur, not in Raxaul like now, and you had to catch a bus to Birgunj from there. So I was coming out of the packed Gorakhpur station when some Bihari Bhaiyyas called me and asked if I understood some English. They must have surmised from my well-tailored clothes that I was educated. I said yes and asked what it was about. They said two Angrez girls were trying to ask them about something, but they didn't understand them and couldn't reply. They pointed near the tea-stall where two white girls seemed to be haggling with a coolie, and a little crowd of curious onlookers had formed around them. I went towards them, telling the bhaiyyas that I would see what it was all about.

' "Is everything alright. What happened?" I said in a loud booming Hindi to act important and pressed past the crowd to be directly in front of the two girls.

'The girls looked at me and one of them asked if I understood English. I said yes. They wanted to know where they could find the next train to Birgunj. I looked at the people that had gathered around us, all Biharis, and I told them in Hindi, "chalo apne apne raste chalo bhaiya." I said I would take care of this and they all slowly left. Then I told the girls in English that they needed to take a bus from here since no trains go to Birgunj, and that being a Nepali myself and going to the same place, I would be very happy to take them there. I didn't know why I said that but they happily agreed.

'As we came out of the station they told me they were Americans and were traveling to different parts of India. They had been to Goa and asked me I had been there. I said no. They said they had a good time in its wonderful beaches. There they had heard a great deal about Kathmandu and planned to visit it. They had initially thought about taking a flight, but later opted for the train since they wanted to see the country.

'The girls were both young, probably in their mid-20's. Both were tall, of my height, wearing the same kind of dresses I used to see most of the hippies in Kathmandu wearing during those days. One had a blonde hair and another had dark and wore specs. The name of the blonde girl was Gwen. Yes, I still remember her name, and what should I say boys, she was really very pretty, with always a smile on her face. Not that the other girl was not pretty, but she remained mostly to herself and didn't smiled much. So I don't remember her name and even her face that much.

'At the Gorakhpur bus station I had a tough time on account of the two girls. Because they were foreigners, agents from somewhat smart type to even shady ones thronged them, offering them good hotels with air condition and all. What you say, at one point I thought I had totally lost them when I saw a big Indian guide literally pulling one of the girl by her arm while trying to hail an auto rickshaw. But I intervened and got the girls away from him. We had a tough time in the sun until we finally found one bus that was just going to Birgunj. But it had only two seats left and that too at the back. It was a long journey and traveling standing up was going to be difficult. So I told the girls that since I have put them on the bus now and as there are no seats available, I would want their leave. But you know what, bhai, they didn't let go of me.

'So I had no option but to accompany them. The conductor told me that I can go sit near the gear box beside the driver if I feel like to. I knew it will be hot after a while and sitting in it unbearable, but I had no choice. There was an old Nepali man at the back of the bus also. He was an ex-Indian army man and returning home after receiving his pension. I thought that with him around I shan't worry about the girls now. It is always good to see someone from back home when you are in foreign land, you feel safe and tend to trust immediately. But I was to be proven wrong.

'So where was I, yes, so few hours later the bus stopped briefly for tea at a Dhaba near the Nepal border. I didn't want the girls to get off the bus even for a moment because I feared in the rural area they would just attract unnecessary attention. However, the girls were a least bit weary of that and came down the bus whenever it stopped and clicked photos. They, however, always remained near the bus.

'Later, one of the girl came to me at the front, the pretty one. She asked me if people here thought that western women were sleazy and is it because of the dresses they wear? I didn't know what to say. She said that the old Nepali man sitting beside her had leaned his head on her shoulders, pretending to be asleep. She had at first ignored it, thinking that the old man must have been tired, but it became unbearable when he started getting naughty with his hands… trying to touch her bosom.

'When I heard this I got really very angry, and although Gwen said I should forget about it, I went straight to the old man and asked him about his behavior.

' "What to do babu, I must have slept and my hands must have…I don't know what happened. I swear I didn't do it intentionally," he said, acting innocent.

'I told him that he must be ashamed of himself to act in this way with girls of his grand-daughter's age. But since we were still in India I thought I better not make a scene out here. So didn't pursue the matter further.

'Later I bribed the conductor and arranged a seat for myself at the back. Throughout the journey the old man faked getting sleepy and tried to touch Gwen again and again."

'It was already dark when we were in Birgunj. The streets were empty albeit few rikshaws only. I always stayed in a particular hotel whenever I used to be in Birgunj, so I took the two girls there. But there we found only one room. So I told the girls I will go to my friend's house who lives nearby here, that I would come pick them up tomorrow and we will take the bus to Kathmandu together.

'Gwen, to my surprise, said that if it is not a problem with me I can also stay in the same room with them since it was only for a night. She said that I can't also be sure that my friend will be in the house and it would just be trouble for me.

'At first I hesitated, but it was already past 10, and outside I could only hear dogs howling. So I thought they were right, I should stay with them. So after having a light meal we talked for a while. But we were all very tired because of the long journey, so we decided that we should move to our room. They picked up their bag and started to go. I said I would come in a while. They got the keys to the room and started climbing up the stairs.

'I was very anxious, had a very tight feeling in my throat. I didn't used to drink back then so had nothing to calm myself. Sleeping in a same room with two kuirenis whom I don't really know that well! I thought what if my family found about it, what would my newly-wedded wife think of me. And the hotel-owner, he knew I was married, where I was from, I respected him just like my elder brother. What must he have thought about me? With these thoughts I stayed there for a while.

'But I was getting very sleepy and I thought why should I care what anyone thinks. The room was in the second floor. I slowly walked the narrow hallway and reached the room. I knocked at the door and waited. One of the girl asked who was it and when I told it is me, Dhurva, I heard a hurried rustle of bedsheet and then Gwen opened the door. She had already changed and was in her t-shirt and shorts, revealing her white thighs. I remained where I was. But Gwen called me in and let me close the door. I didn't even have the courage to look up and act easy.

'Another girl was in the bed reading a novel or something, she looked up at me once and didn't give much attention to me being there. Gwen jumped in her bed, her long blonde hair left open, and gave a nice little smile to me. She pointed at the bed at another corner of the room and said I should sleep there. In the tube light her face sparkled more. You may find it amazing, but not even a word came out of my mouth, as if my throats were sealed. I simply sat on my bed, felt the sheets and the soft pillow. I proceeded to open my shoes and then my socks, and without saying anything lied in my bed, but sleep didn't come to me. Gwen seemed quite amazed at my sudden silence and started getting talkative to cheer me up. She was saying she had heard a lot of Kathmandu, in fact one of her cousins was in Nepal as a Peace Corps volunteer; and that she had heard a great deal about the mountains, the villages and difficult treks. I just nodded in affirmation and said something only when it was necessary.

'It was already midnight, and tired though I was, I thought it would be better to freshen up a bit. I went to the bathroom and washed my face and hands and came out and immediately flopped into my bed. Gwen said I need to change to something comfortable. But I said I was okay like this and just turned to the other side. Then Gwen, playful and all giggly, started to tease me. She said she loved my long pointed nose, and wished she had nose like that too. I told her long nose doesn't suit girls. She just laughed and tried to make her friend laugh too.

'After a while the other girl said she was sleepy and switched off the light. With the room dark and two girls sleeping beside me, all sort of thinking started to come to me. It was natural also, I was young, and they were young too. But I remained in my bed, my hands tightly pressed between my knees. Gwen must have sensed my trepidation and couldn't help laughing. Embarrassed, I turned to her to know what was she laughing about. She said she had never seen a man sleep like that, all cuddled up with full clothes on. I didn't know what to say, but by god, even in the darkness her face shined like a marble. Even her impeccable teeth gleamed in the dark. You know she really looked like an angel. I was astounded, kept looking at her and she kept laughing. Her eyes were playful. But I was a shy guy back then and soon got embarrassed, turned to the other side and pretended sleeping. She said good night and I told her goodnight. I heard her getting inside the blanket, the rustle the two girls made in the bed and their slow talk. They talked about someone named Craig for a while and about back home and then they said goodnight to each other and grew silent. But sleep came only in snatches to me and the whole night I listened to dogs howl outside in the streets. During the night I woke up again to drink a glass of water. I looked at the girls, they were fast asleep, the thin blankets at their feet because of the heat, and I felt what was I doing sleeping in the same room with the two American girls. It simply felt unusual.

'When I woke up in the morning the two girls were still asleep. I went down, freshened up. The hotel-owner smilingly asked how did I sleep last night. I knew what he was pointing at and I ignored him. I ordered coffee for the girls and tea for me. I saw few children probably from the other room peeking inside ours since I had left the door open. I went inside, open the window and curtains, and told the girls it was time to go now or we will miss the bus.

'Had coffee with them, and thinking they would want to freshen up and change their clothes, I said I will be waiting for them down and would also order breakfast, but asked them that they should get ready fast.

'After a while they came down looking all fresh in neat looking clothes. We had a sumptuous breakfast. They said they are going to pay for all and I hesitatingly obliged. 'Later we got into a bus which was just about going to Kathmandu. This time the bus was not so packed and we got ourselves comfortable seats. One thing that I wanted to tell them right from the morning was that I would not be accompanying them all the way to Kathmandu, as I would be getting off in Chitwan to visit my family. When I told this to Gwen she felt sad, but still persuaded me to come with them to Kathmandu. But when I told her I hadn't met my wife and family for 4 months now her lips became sealed.

'At the place where the bus stopped for passengers to have their meal, I told the girls, seeing them all so very quiet, that I would write a letter to a friend of mine who worked as a manager in a hotel in Kathmandu. I said that he would arrange for a place for them to stay in his hotel and also get them around town. Gwen, who had grown unusually silent since I told her I would not be coming to Kathmandu, lit up slightly and accepted. While they were having tea, I quickly wrote a letter to my friend on a piece of blank paper in Nepali and, folding it, handed it to Gwen's friend telling her to give it to Mr. Ghimire at the Kathmandu Guest House. I told them that he was a very good man and would take care of them very well during their stay in Kathmandu. After just few hours, it was my time to bid them good bye. When I stood up to leave, Gwen held out her hand. I took it. She then gave me a hug, said it was nice meeting me. I shaked hands with another girl who thanked me for my help. She also asked me when I would be back in Kathmandu. I said I don't know, but assured them it would be pretty soon. I got off the bus and, boys, that was the last time I saw the two of them.

'When I reached home everybody were happy to see me. To my surprise I found out that my wife had become pregnant, I was very glad. At home after a long time, I didn't know how two weeks passed. Then I got a call from my office that I should immediately go to Nepalgunj to see some official work. That took me couple of weeks more, so that when I finally went to Kathmandu, it was a month and a half later, and I had all but forgotten about the girls.

'Only that one day I chanced upon that friend of mine who worked at the hotel that I finally remembered about the two girls and asked him whether they were still in Kathmandu.

' "No, it has been over a week since they left," he said, "And, yes just yesterday one girl has sent you a letter, must be that she really liked you. She always asked me about you and when you would come to Kathmandu."

'The letter was from Boston or somewhere. I opened it and started to read. She had a terrible handwriting, I thought it was unreadable at first, but when I tried hard I found out that I could easily read it. What had she written? Well, she had thanked me for the wonderful time she had with me, but was sad that I couldn't join her in Kathmandu. She said she had planned to stay for a while and do some more trekking, but she had to return because her friend fell sick after some time and started to miss home. She wrote that she really loved Nepal, that the people were nice. She also appreciated how I helped them in the journey and lastly she wrote that when I happen to be in America I could come and meet her in the address given below. Lastly she said that she really liked me and would like to see me again the next time she is in Nepal.

'I was astounded, didn't know whether I should write a reply or not. Although I thought I should write one to her, but didn't knew what to write so I never did in fact write to her. When I met that hotel friend six months later he said he had two more letters for me from the same girl and asked when would I come to his office to collect them. I said I would come soon, but never did.

'You know I always remind my wife about this incident whenever she gets angry with me. I tell her that it would have been better if I had gone to America with the Americi girl and left her here. She almost always gets sad when I tell her this and I have to again console her, saying that her husband loves her more than anyone else and would never leave her.

"Now, look your heroine is leaving," one of his colleagues said. The girl and the Nepali guide got off the bus somewhere in Bhaktapur, saying bye to their friend. Then our bus moved again.

'I don't know where would they stay today, I don't think we have any hotels around this place," the middle-aged man said, his eyebrows arched. "Anyway what's it with us. They can camp in the jungle for all I care."

We traveled in silence for a while.

Later, the middle-aged man was complaining: "Everyday we have to make such a long journey to Kathmandu. I am sick of it." nepalnews.com June 15 08

The writer can be reached at andygurung@yahoo.com

Have your say ! (Registration required)