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 Kathmandu Friday July 06, 2001 Ashadh 22,  2058.


Garment industry braces for another setback

By Bhaskar Sharma

KATHMANDU, July 5 - As if the present woes of the garment industry were not enough, the United States (US) government, at the request of its Bangladeshi counterpart, is contemplating granting free market access to Bangladeshi exports, all at Nepal’s unease.

Garment entrepreneurs here say the removal of tariff and quota barriers on garment exports from Bangladesh to the US markets, which is likely to be decided in the next three months, would mean a severe setback to the industry back home, which tops the list of foreign currency earners.

Nepali garments is already under pressure due to the passing of the African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA) in November 2000, which allows duty-free and quota-free access to garments exports from around 33 Sub-Saharan African countries to US markets. Bangladesh had applied for the same facility after the US congress passed the African bill last year.

Since the demand for Nepali garments in the international markets is as a result of spillovers from the quota from the neighbouring countries like India, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka, free market facility for a close country like Bangladesh would kill the market for Nepali garments back home. In addition, garments produced back home, which is almost 25-30 per cent more expensive than the neighbouring countries, would be at a severe disadvantage in the US market.

"Once garments from Bangladesh gains free market facility to the US, Nepali garment industry, the prime foreign currency earner, will die out," says Kiran Saakha, Chief of the WTO cell at the Garment Association of Nepal. There are over 215 garment manufacturers in Nepal presently that employ over 50,000 workers and have total investments shooting above Rs 6 billion.

Garment entrepreneurs had repeatedly urged the government to pressure the US for granting the same facility as the Sub-Saharan African countries. However, no initiatives have been taken so far. The US had granted the facility to those African countries having per capita income of less than US $ 1500. Nepal’s per capita income hardly touches US $ 250, but is yet to avail to the facility granted by the US.

"If the garment industry is to be saved, the government must actively aim to obtain the same facilities as applied by Bangladesh," says Saakha. US importers presently pay an average of 20 per cent tariff on the import of garments from Nepal. If no duty is levied on Bangladeshi exports, the results would be disastrous for Nepal, says Saakha.

Nepali garment exports to the US, where over 85 per cent of the total Nepali garment exports is absorbed, has, in the meantime, declined by almost 8 per cent in the first six months of 2001 as compared to the corresponding period last year. In absolute terms, garment exports to the US in the January-June period in 2001 stood at US$ 92.03 million, down from the last year’s corresponding figures of US$ 99.77 million. The exports had grown by almost 18 per cent in 1999 and by over 30 per cent in 2000.

"For a sector that has grown persistently at a good rate, the latest slump in exports is depressing," says Chandi Raj Dhakal, Managing Director of Momento Apparels, the largest individual exporter of the country. "The government must address the problems plaguing the industry immediately."

Pressed by the present slump in demand, Garment Association of Nepal (GAN), about two weeks ago, had even submitted a report to the government assessing the impact of not just the AGOA, but also a similar facility likely to be received by the Caribbean countries under the banner of the Caribbean bill. "The government, however, is yet to respond to the association’s report," says Saakha.

If the government is serious in resolving the quandaries of the garment industry, it must begin by slashing down the various duties and taxes that it presently levies on the export sector, in addition to addressing the present problem of duty drawback and Value Added Tax refund, say entrepreneurs.


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