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Kathmandu, Monday March 03, 2003  Falgun 19,  2059.

Praying for lasting peace, adventure seekers cruise down white water rapids

By Surendra Phuyal

SUKUTE (Sindhupalchok) March 2 : This isolated resort village on the banks of the Bhote Koshi River along the Arniko Highway yesterday welcomed about 200 local and international visitors, who came for rafting and kayaking - and the fun and thrill associated with the adventure sports.

And it was not a business-as-usual kind of thing. Until last month, the raging Bhote Koshi and the dozen-odd resorts along its banks, would be devoid of visitors, literally. But the cease-fire declared more than a month ago seems to have opened the floodgates for visitors, just as the nation observes Destination Nepal Campaign 2002-2003.

"The cease-fire - declared on January 29 - has instilled some hope. So there’s some respite in sight," said Arun Gurung, the President of All Nepal River Guides Association (ANARGA), which has over 300 river guides as members. "There is peace. That’s why more and more foreigners are willing to visit Nepal. Even local tourists are in outdoor mood these days."

That hundreds of people from Kathmandu, foreign tourists among them, came here to raft down the Bhote Koshi rapids from Balefi to Sukute Koshi Saturday afternoon says it all. Buckling up their safety helmets and life jackets, the adventure-lovers boarded the rubber rafts and kayaks and cascaded down the snow-fed river.

Their bodies leaning back and forth, the adventure-seekers paddled on - at time very hard - to sail through the white water rapids, which are dubbed by many as the pure flow of adrenaline.

"This is my first time, and I enjoyed a lot," said Meena Sharma, a Thamel restaurateur. She was among the dozens of young Nepali ladies, who had come over for the fun of it. "It’s fun, the air is so clean out here. I will come again and again," added her shy friend, who refused to be identified.

In Thamel, the tourist district of Kathmandu, the population of backpackers is gradually swelling. There is a new shine in the depressed faces of both the small and big-time entrepreneurs. And the influx of tourists is expected to go up during mid-spring and coming autumn season.

"The news of cease-fire has definitely circulated far and wide, the bookings have doubled in our hotel," said Rajan Shakya of Kathmandu Guest House. "The number of tourists has definitely gone up. But since most travellers take time to decide, the possible impact would be known only by coming autumn."

Figures released last month by the Immigration Office, Department of Immigration, at the Tribhuwan International Airport, showed some signs of recovery. The growth observed in January 2003 stood at 19 percent over the same period in the previous year. While Indian visitors singly contributed 38 percent growth, arrivals from the third country remained at 11 percent.

In January, a total of 16,103 tourists visited Nepal with a net increase of 2,527 visitors, according to the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB). In fact, travel trade has weathered enough of bad publicity in recent times. And that has affected hundreds of small-time tourism entrepreneurs like Mahendra Singh Thapa of Equator Expeditions, who owns a rafting company and a resort on the scenic banks of the Bhote Koshi here.

"The arrivals started dipping, and that compelled many to fold up," Thapa, who is also the president of Nepal Association of Rafting Agents (NARA), said. "Two years ago, we had 70 rafting companies under NARA, but now there are hardly 37 left. The situation is quite depressing, you know."

The steep fall in arrivals has also hit thousands of tourism professionals like Resham Lama, who is a river guide, and hundreds of thousands of others who indirectly benefit from the hospitality business. "2002 was the most difficult year," he sighs. "There was not much work. We were finding it extremely difficult even to make our ends meet."

According to figures made available by the NARA, approximately 15 percent of the tourists visiting Nepal like to go on various rafting expeditions that range from relatively easier Trishuli and Seti, to extremely difficult Karnali, Marshyangdi and Tamor. So far, the government has opened altogether 16 rivers for rafting.


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