Dealing with unhidden agenda

By DINESH THAPA

Not hidden to anybody’s knowledge are the Maoist three political demands — the roundtable conference, interim government and elections to a Constituent Assembly— that were placed since long for the peaceful progressive way out to the longstanding political problem. The CPN-Maoist has left the demand for a republic to the people to decide, which shows their firm conviction on the masses. What is also noteworthy to mention here is that the CPN-Maoist has time and again expressed its determination to comply with the outcome of the consensus arrived at the roundtable conference and pledged to acknowledge people’s verdict irrespective of the result in the Constituent Assembly election.

There are reasons to believe that their present political stand, which has also been manifested while discussing with different leading figures of national politics, is their sincere strategy to resolve the long standing political problems peacefully but not as a mere tactic of accumulating strength for the bigger offensives.

History has proved that the lack of seriousness on the part of the government during past dialogue is responsible for the stalemate. It failed to understand the scientific reality that the armed superiority of the Royal Army alone has nothing to do with people’s rebellion based upon a revolutionary ideology. Their failure in realising the fact that mercenary armed forces have nowhere been capable of smashing a struggle based on the masses equipped with revolutionary ideology has led to the present situation.

Despite the deployment of the Royal Nepal Army, the proclamation of emergency throughout the country and the October 4 royal takeover that were taken to contain the Maoist insurgency turned futile, the Maoists have penetrated further deep into the masses. They are controlling almost the entire hilly region. Not only this, if Krishna Mohan Shrestha, the highest-ranking officer of the Armed Police Force, can be annihilated like a rat in the capital itself, then who will remain safe when the war resumes with unseen intensity and the foreign soldiers march across the territory of Nepal? Let us be serious on it.

Belatedly though, both the Maoists and the government have now agreed upon to save peacefully the country and people from the smoke screen of dreadful events that is looming in the horizon. In a new development, both sides have drafted and signed a 22-point code of conduct.

Now that the rebel side has shown commitment to the peaceful settlement of the seven years long bloody civil war, the parliamentarian parties and establishment in particular has to be more sincere and serious. But sadly, this is yet to happen.

Parliamentarian parties want the CPN-Maoist in their fold to reinstate the already dissolved House of Representatives, ostensibly to save democracy and enjoy upper hand in the present equation. On the other hand, the Palace seems to have thought of attracting the Maoists for the time being to its fold on the pretext of safeguarding nation and national interest. But it is sure that none of the aforesaid maneuvering will help them acquire upper hand in the present state of power balance rather the cost of minimizing sensitivity of the prevailing situation and every efforts of fishing in troubled water will be higher in the immediate days ahead.

Let us come to the ground reality. The constitution is completely defunct. Parliamentarian parties are totally bypassed and have lost moral ground, too. The monarchy is stepping up his moves, one after another, to consolidate its position of absolute ruler further. Economy is on the verge of collapse. No parliament exists to discuss the issues of national interest. On the other hand, the CPN-Maoist is enjoying the support of the majority of the people countrywide and controls the vast countryside. It is notable here that the Maoists have accumulated this strength by raising arms against the then constitution, system and monarchy with a clear-cut perspective of establishing New Democratic Republic of Nepal. But it is a fact that none of the three contenders, right at this juncture, can achieve their goal independently rather their individual moves in compliance with their line will further deteriorate the situation of the country. That is why three-party consensus that can address the basic minimum problems facing the country and its people has become an objective necessity of the situation at present.

Evidently, both the establishment and the parliamentarian parties should sincerely think how the rebels could be brought onto the main stream track through a negotiated settlement, which is painstaking but urgent.

While taking into account of the present ground reality and the political solution put forth so far by different political centers it seems that no proposal excepting to that of the CPN-Maoist would help bring the rebels, the Palace and the parliamentarian parties together at a common platform. It is sure that no settlement, which is done without involving the Maoists in the process, would bear fruits. That is why the task of involving the CPN-Maoist in this peace process has become a decisive factor in the present stalemate situation. No one can deny this.

If so, let us come to discuss the relevance of political agendas presented by the rebels. The first one is roundtable conference. No one has denied till now that the nation is passing through a critical situation. The Maoists have now come up with new ideas to solve the problem, why should one be intolerant to listen to them? That is such a platform, where each of the people present can enjoy equal opportunity to convince others if they are wrong. And oppositely that is also a university to learn from others’ correct ideas, if they exist. Roundtable conference only can become such a means that can address the immediate basic problems of the nation and the people.

The second of the three proposals is the election to the interim government. Now in the present situation, when the constitution is defunct and no constitutional executive body prevails in the country, a body with certain authority is a must to run the process until a new mechanism is set up. Given the present triangular balance of power, a body, which is composed of all the three contenders, can only accomplish the mandate conferred by the roundtable conference. Important to take note here is the fact that only the roundtable conference can and must elect the interim government, in which the former renders common mandate to the later for its future course. The interrelation between these two, and more importantly, the decisive role of the roundtable conference must not be overlooked.

The third that decides the future of our nation and its people is the election to the constituent assembly. Everybody knows that a constitution is that document, which is prepared by basing upon consensus of the then state of power balance and guides the system towards its future course till that power balance exists. So constitution is not a thing that is absolute. If it cannot incorporate the newly developed power equation into it, it becomes defunct, which is the present situation. Given the rise of newly developed people’s power under the CPN-Maoist leadership, death of the old constitution was inevitable, for which the Palace, though with autocratic intention, has only hastened the process to draft a new one. This is what, I think, is the dynamics of constitution, which everybody should understand.

Different political centers had been raising voice on the necessity of timely change in the constitution in the past, this is at least a positive attitude towards it. But problem lies in their outlook towards the dynamism of the constitution and the methodology to adopt. So long as the methodology is concerned, the democratic procedure is the best one in which the entire population is involved in this or that way. In other words, election of the constituent assembly is the most democratic procedure seen so far in the history of democratic movement in the world. If there is any better method than this best one, let us have debate on that. Otherwise, why these so-called Messiahs of democracy, who have devoted whole of their life do not understand this? What makes your problem to give the people the right to writing constitution, which rules them? If the parliamentarian parties are afraid of people’s verdict, then what their lovely word of democracy stands for? Why do not the so-called Messiahs of patriotism and their blind followers understand that the voluntary unity of the people, which is achieved only by providing full right to exercising their conscience, safeguards the nation and national interest? Which of the unity, voluntary or forced, is stronger and reliable? Please make a note of it; the conscious Nepalese people of 21st century are asking to answer these questions now.

Cricket war

By DIPESH PARAJULI

The fiery Bret Lee is hurling towards me with a brand new ball in his hand. The whole stadium is cheering up but my heart is pounding with fears as I know superfast bowlers believe in the ‘hurt and hit theory’. He comes closer to the wickets and delivers it and I should say it was not less than a bullet. The ball pitched outside off and nipped back perfectly, just short of good length, but I swung the bat like a Lara and the ball went sailing over the top of deep square leg fielder. It was a perfectly struck Six from the middle of the bat and so was the time! as my mom called me to wake up. Dear, oh, dear, I was in my wildest dream and it was six o’ clock in the morning when she called me.

The ongoing World Cup cricket has brought drastic changes in my life. Now cricket is a part of my life and I cannot ignore it at any cost. Every morning I remember the teams competing later on the day. Now it has reached the final level and it is really worth to watch fascinating cricket. This is the big stage and the only thing teams want is a win, so tricks in the book will be applied to win. Mind you only the tough survives.

Only the cricketing skills will not be enough to win the big matches. The team, which is well-organised, adapts quickly with the circumstances and is mentally strong, will have the upper hand. Still the beauty of the game is such that whoever plays better in that particular day, wins.

Although I am not a TV addict, it has been my best friend since last one month or so. I had never watched SetMax channel for more than half an hour in my life but I am still hanging over it to enjoy the World Cup. Sometimes, I imagine what if SetMax had not bought rights to telecast the games live? Life would be incomplete, if I had to miss this mega event.

Nowadays, I see every thing in the aspect of cricket. Whenever I see any thing round, I compare it with a cricket ball, hold it between my fingers and virtually bowl a devastating inswinging Yorker to hit the middle stump of a virtual batsman. That feels nice, in fact very satisfying.

I make my best-11 team every day. Well, that is strictly based on the recent performance of individuals, still the likes of Warne, Murali, Akram, Sachin, Lara, McGrath are never out. They are genius and they deserve the place. I imagine who’ll win this World Cup (in fact it is a trophy). Australia is definitely the strongest but who knows what is going to happen! Who had imagined Sri Lanka would lose to Kenya? But still I should say India too has good chances after intimidating Aussies.

If everything goes right for the Nepalese cricket as it has happened in the last two years, Nepal will be right there in the West Indies to play World Cup in 2007. If we can avoid politics in Nepalese cricket and keep it clean, littel wonder we will get to see opening bowler Mehboob Alam will be bowling to Sachin Tendulkar in a bouncy track of Barbados with 3 slips and 2 gullys. And if you don’t blame me for being over ambitious, Sachin will edge his first ball to 2nd slip to delight us. As an ardent cricket fan, my heart leaps with joy imagining those ecstatic moments.

For lasting settlement

By KAMALA SARUP 

Minister of Physical Planning and Works Narayan Singh Pun has expressed confidence that there was no disagreement between the Maoists and the government over the code of conduct, which consists of 22 points. He said that things have been sorted out for the goodwill talks. So the proposed peace talks would not be delayed even if the efforts to accommodate major political parties in the process failed. The Nepalese people know that peace is possible in Nepal only if the peace processes are based on a very realistic appraisal of the intentions. Now negotiating teams should be sure not to repeat the mistakes that wrecked the earlier talks.

A lasting peace plan should begin by addressing the immediate needs of the average Nepalese people— their access to water, education, health, agriculture and so on. There is, equally, a crisis of governance, of political leadership, of the economy and of development at large.

The Nepalese people abroad remain deeply concerned about how the Nepalese politics achieve permanent peace, security and stability. How the political parties, civic society and intellectual forces make the peace process participatory? How the dialogue with the Maoists will be concluded in order to fulfill the objective of multi-party system, constitutional monarchy, people’s sovereignty and peace?

A peace agreement must also guarantee an independent and impartial monitoring of any allegations of human rights abuses by the parties. Both negotiating parties must be committed to protecting human life and dignity, and security of all Nepalese. This concept of a lasting peace is based on the belief that we can build a better Nepal through discourse, mutually beneficial interaction and the determination of common values. Regional, gender and cultural balance should be maintained and fundamental human rights, which should be respected and protected in the peace process. The present cease-fire and peace process need to be translated into a lasting peace for the long-term interest of the country. We all Nepalese are committed to peace, which provides security to the people and peace for generations. The rebel leaders met leaders of various political parties and discussed their agenda and necessary cooperation they wanted from all the political parties. This process needs to be translated into permanent peace.

It will indeed be tragic if arms are indiscriminately used to resolve issues. Whoever be the user of arms, it is always harmful to the smooth functioning of the society and the nation. Whenever a bitter infighting like the one in Nepal is brought to an end, it naturally gives a tremendous boost to peace and a genuine hope for happy, free and secure life begins to grow.

Pushpa Kamal Dahal’s declaration of the cease-fire and its immediate support by a reciprocal announcement of the government have paved the way for a peaceful settlement of a sad issue destroying the very fabric of Nepal for the last seven years.

Bleak future without any prospect for decent living created fear at every step and made the life of innocent people a journey to the veritable hell. Most political analysts may blame the Maoists for it all, as the Maoists, on their part, have been relentlessly waging a brutal internecine armed struggle, particularly concentrating their activities in farflung hilly and rural regions of the country. But, to be honest, it is the doing of the so-called democratic leaders elected by the common people.

For the last thirteen years, these political leaders acted openly and unhesitatingly as ruthless warlords and selfish despots, throwing the laws of the land overboard and nakedly defying the rule of law. Instead of fulfilling the promises of rebuilding the nation as they made when appealing to the innocent people for votes during elections, these cunning representatives began to collect money for their private use by hook or by crook and by ruining the basic infrastructure of the country. The money that had to go for constructing much-needed roads, hospitals, schools and irrigation canals were manipulated for their own private gains— be it in making palatial buildings, on foreign joy trips or amassing wealth for their families for generations. The quality of education is plummeting alarmingly, the morale of the government employees is waning and the whole nation began to make a nosedive in every field of developmental activities. On the one hand, the silent majority suffered, but on the other hand, "a few youth began to revolt this evil state of affairs openly" as Dr Tara Nath Sharma said in the Washington DC.

The Nepalese now know that how socio-economic disparities and injustices are persistent features of most conflict-prone and war-torn societies. How have violent conflicts prevented economic and social development in Nepal? How are the major political parties concerned with getting a share of the power pie for themselves rather than working to translate the people’s desire into permanent peace?

We must now understand that violence has caused an enormous loss to the nation. Differences of ideas on many key questions can be settled only through discussions. The government decision to compensate the Maoist victims is a most welcome move because no Nepali would ever benefit from violence and conflict.

Dr Tana Sharma further said, "One of the outspoken and vehement elements that emerged in the country is known today as Maoists." They felt that all the Nepalese children should have open access to education and healthcare, appropriate jobs should be provided to all and everyone should have a decisive say in the administration. Preaching these basic human values of equality, the Maoists appeared on the scene. Naturally, those enjoying the fruits of the nation without any opposition from any side got infuriated and didn’t tolerate any sharp criticism of their own totally undemocratic behaviour.

Ideologically, these dissatisfied young people looked towards the left parties with hope, but the CPN-UML which had become the second largest party in parliament in the 1994 general elections, turned inactive and corrupt as the majority party the Nepali Congress Party (NC). Not only this, the CPN-UML when came to power behaved almost in the same sloppy way as the NC. Then these youth organised themselves as the extreme leftist party, advocating total change in the country. Their main demands include (1) Free education for all (without any discrimination) (2) Free and fair election for a Constituent Assembly (3) Freedom from economic exploitation (4) Establishment of a Democratic Republic of Nepal. With these objectives in view, they launched their violent struggle from rural areas.

Digging the past to buy the future

ANIL PANICKER

T hat men do not learn very much from the lessons of history is the most important of all the lessons that history has to teach.

- A Case of Voluntary Ignorance, Collected Essays, 1959

Ayodhya is once again back in business. This follows a court order paving the way for excavations to carry on at the disputed site, where more than a decade back, Hindu bigots razed the Babri Masjid.

With the arrival of a twelve-member team of experts from the Archaeological Survey of India, the religious circus has once again truly begin. Nowadays the hapless town wears a festive look with people beginning to slowly converge here from all corners. They have come from all over. Lowly labourers, well known archaeologists, stiff upper lipped government officials, magistrates, ash smeared saints in their saffron, free flowing robes, bearded clerics and imams, journalists and off course, the ubiquitous politicians - all standing cheek-in-bowl, rubbing shoulders with one another. A perfect example to show that man has finally managed to escape out of the dragnet of his narrow mindset and embrace his fellow human being, irrespective of caste, religion, status or political dispositions. Long live humanity! Down with fascism!

But wait a minute before we jump the gun and herald the arrival of the New Age Man. A closer look at the crowd that has converged at this temple town tells a different picture.

There are 54 labourers working round the clock here. All have been provided with photo identity cards. Working with shovels and pickaxes, they have been asked to perform a simple task- dig. Dig, dig and keep on digging, until you stumble onto something, anything for that matter. Be it a pebble, rock, miniature carving, vandalised hand or a severed torso.

The rest of the work will be taken care of by experts, who will collect all such archeological evidences and submit them to the court, which will then take a decision regarding the status of the disputed structure.

This is the not the first time that such an exercise has taken place and let me assure you this will indeed not be the last one too. The reason: Every time you pick up an axe and dig for clues, you end up sowing seeds of communal hatred, which soon sprout forth and give juicy electoral fruits, apart from bloody riots, innumerable killings, a million orphans, economic collapse and international shame.

This is not the first time excavation work on the disputed site has been conducted. On June 18, 1992, when the ground near the Ramajanma Bhumi was being leveled, a most startling archaeological discovery was made at Ayodhya. At a depth of about 12 feet from the ground level near the Ramajanma Bhumi temple, towards the south and beyond the fencing, a big hoard of beautifully carved buff sandstone pieces was located in a large pit, dug down below the old top level. A careful study by a group of eight eminent archaeologists and historians found that all these objects are architectural members of a Hindu temple-complex of the 11th century AD.

These experts were unanimous of the view that the temple, to which these fragments belong, is of the developed Nagara style of ancient temple architecture which was current in northern India during the later part of the early medieval period i.e; the period after 900 AD and before 1200 AD.

The second most significant find is the curvilinear part of the Jala mouldings present on the Shikharas. It also belongs exclusively to the north Indian temples of the period after 900 AD. The third most remarkable sculptured piece of stone is a rectangular capital of a pillar with beautiful mouldings in the form of highly stylised lotus petals.

The fourth example of stone sculptures belongs to the most characteristic member of the Nagara style of temples -it is called Chhajja, sun-shade, where the straight wall over the high plinth meets the base of the Shikhara.

There is one example of a door-jamb or dvara- shakha of the main entrance of the temple. There is also a fragment of a stele embellished with the most significant sculptures of a number of Vaishnavite gods, viz. a Chakrapurusha, ie a youthful male figure standing gracefully at an angle (tribhanga) and holding vertically in the palm of the right hand the characteristic wheel or Chakra of Vishnu.

Besides the above, several other images were found. All these evidences prove without an iota of doubt what Prof BB Lal, the previous excavator of this site, has been repeatedly saying: Here at Ramajanma Bhumi (birthplace of Lord Ram) there existed an imposing temple of the 11th-12th century, built on pillars standing on a series of parallel burnt-brick bases, which was destroyed in the early 16th century.

These new findings lend credence to the views expressed earlier in 1990 by independent experts that the 16 black stone pillars and one piece of door-jamb with carvings of gods and goddesses existing in the so-called ‘Babri Mosque structure’ and also the adjoining areas, belong to a 11th century Hindu temple, possibly Vaishnavite.

Similar views were shared even Muslim chroniclers including the granddaughter of Aurangzeb.

But the big question on everybody’s lips is: What if the courts rule that there indeed existed a Ram temple at the exact site? Or vice versa? Can the courts guarantee the safety of every single Indian, be he a Hindu or Muslim, who happens to get innocently caught in the crossfire of mass hatred that will surely sprout in the days to come?

Curbing threat of corporate control on global food

KAMALESH ADHIKARI

Consumer organisations worldwide celebrate World Consumer Rights Day on 15 March each year. First observed on 15 March 1983, the day is celebrated to commemorate a historic declaration of basic consumer rights made by former President of the United States John F Kennedy on 15 March 1962.

The declaration outlined the basic consumer rights as the right to safety; the right to be informed; the right to choose; and the right to be heard. Over the years, these rights expanded to a total of eight. Worldwide consumer movement led by Consumers International (CI), a global federation of over 250 consumer organisations, added four more rights: the right to satisfaction of basic needs; the right to redress; the right to education; and the right to a healthy environment.

The United Nations included these rights in its landmark guidelines for consumer protection of 1985. The guidelines quoted that ‘all citizens, regardless of their incomes or social standing, have basic rights as consumers.’ These eight rights form the very basis of worldwide consumer movement today. Consumer rights ultimately have got full recognition and legitimacy at both - international and national - levels. All countries have built up the frameworks for strengthening national consumer protection policies.

Talking of present, despite the global pledge for consumer protection, consumer rights are not being respected as there are enough evidences to indicate that consumer rights are ignored or trivialised by producers, powerful interests and even by governments. World Consumer Rights Day has therefore been designed to draw the attention to such violations, so that consumer groups could get a platform to protest such defiance; and ultimately get justice.

The day is important not only for celebration and solidarity within the international consumer movement but also because it encourages the consumers worldwide to demand that their rights are respected and protected, and not arrested by the market abuses and social and economic injustices. At this particular day, consumer organisations therefore plan and carry out different local initiatives such as campaigns, press conferences, public exhibitions, workshops, street events and new publications.

The theme for this year is ‘Corporate Control of the Food Chain – The GM Link.’ The theme for the year 2000 was ‘Our Food, Whose Choice?’; for 2001 it was ‘Corporate Citizenship In the Global Market - Accountability and the Consumer Perspective’; in 2002 it was ‘Voices for Change’.

On one hand, unregulated production and trade of Genetically Modified (GM) food crops have become worries for consumers; on the other, due to globalisation of production systems and of finance, and the liberalisation of economic activity and in recent years, the multilateral trading regime of the World Trade Organisation (WTO), corporate control of the food chain has come as a new threat to the rights of consumers.

CI has realised that while key question on safety and environmental issues relating to genetically modified food remain unanswered, it is equally important to look beyond these to the ways that corporations are using GM technology to consolidate their control over global food production. As evidence from practical experience grow more substantial, it is increasingly clear that GM crops currently being grown offer no benefits to consumers and nothing to farmers. Even the intended ‘indirect’ advantages of reduced pesticide and herbicide use are not being achieved. The only beneficiaries are the agrochemical corporations that sell the seeds and associated farm chemicals.

Studies have shown that six multinationals control around 70 percent of the patents held on staple food crops. Similarly, another study has revealed that five major gene giants [Du Pont, Pharmacia (Monsanto), Syngenta, Aventis and Dow] account for 60 percent of global pesticide market, 23 percent of commercial seed market and virtually 100 percent of the transgenic seed market.

It has become an imperative for the consumer organisations to unite and protest the growing corporate control on food market. The governments, especially of the developing and least developed countries, should also be wise enough to regulate such tactics.

It is encouraging to note that on the occasion of Consumer Rights Day 2003, consumer groups from Nigeria to Ecuador, Trinidad to Ukraine, have already decided to protest against GM foods and the methods used by agribusiness to control the food. In Jamaica, they have planned to launch a study into the prevalence of GM foods and lobby for a regulatory framework to protect consumers.

There have been various successful consumer campaigns against GM foods. Owing to efforts made by consumer organisations within the International Codex Committee on Food Labelling, the rights of member states to impose comprehensive mandatory labelling of GM foods have been upheld due to pressure from these in Europe. GM tomatoes and GM tobacco – the first GM crops to be commercialised - have failed to win market acceptance and have been abandoned. GM potatoes were withdrawn from the US market. Consumers in Japan have halted the development of herbicide tolerant GM rice, promoted by Monsanto. Similarly, as a direct result of legal action by Brazilian consumers group, Instituto Brasileiro de Defesa do Consumidor, Brazil became the first country in the world to prohibit the planting and commercialisation of GM foods.

It is, of course, the rights of the consumers worldwide to ask why this technology should be used at all when it produces no benefits to society but has the potential for causing great damage.

(The author is associated with South Asia Watch on Trade, Economics and Environment)

Mythical Dolakha
The magic is still in full force

BIKASH SANGRAULA

Take a bus at six in the morning from mythical Kathmandu to equally mythical town of Dolakha and you are on for an eight-hour drive, constantly on the ascent. The road is rough at times and you might feel sleepy, rocked by the vehicle like a baby. But then, the vast expanse of greenery, the hills that spring out of nowhere to say ‘hello’, and the traditionally constructed houses with cute cowsheds smelling of medieval times do not allow you that luxury. You are propelled by henceforth undiscovered store of your own aesthetic values to appreciate the beauty of it all.

You will be mystified by the credulous people looking vacantly at your speeding vehicle and the children who make the risky and inherently useless attempt of running at the vehicle’s speed. The unbelievable purity of Sunkoshi and Bhotekoshi and the small bazaars where the vehicle halts to take in simple-minded passengers of mysterious backgrounds and concerns will be equally dreamlike in the midday lull.

When you reach Dolakha after almost turning into a poet by that vastly inspiring drive, you might be fortunate to be welcomed by the boys at the Dolakha lodge. The owner, Kalyani Shrestha, an immensely amicable lady in her early fifties, will show you into the cool and cosy quarters. You will be surprised to find that the rest house has all the essentials for a comfortable and revitalising rest. If you have some time left, you can venture out sightseeing. What a wonderful decision that will turn out to be!

Dolakha has it all for the inquiring and the attentive. If you are with someone who knows the area like his palm-lines, there is every chance that you will soon understand the changing ethos of the place. You will discover that the town’s striking ordinariness is only a serene facade. Beneath that thrives the town’s neat and well-regulated life steeped in age-old traditions. Even if you are one incurable adventurer and inclined to occasionally upsetting the status quo, you will immediately respect the arrangements of that town of the myth loving and god-fearing. The fresh air, the tourist spots that are almost voluble about their ancient tales, and the simple, believing people immediately send to rest the typical desperation of the resident of a metropolis. Perhaps that is why the Maoists spared the town, influenced by the spell of its feminine beauty.

In ancient times when Nepal had a profitable trade relationship with Tibet, this was the route that merchants used. It was then that this town rose to prosperity. There are still some houses belonging to those times. According to some locals, the town has more or less faithfully maintained its past appearance. Apparently, as soon as trade and commerce dried up, Dolakha ceased to age. Despite the time-ravaged houses, the town is young, and so are its sons who constitute one of the most reliable work forces for odd jobs in the capital.

When Laxman was injured and the great ape-god Hanuman was asked to bring a certain medicinal herb for the rescue, the mighty ape-god hovered on the sky above Dolakha, say the locals. Probably the beauty of the region dulled his sense of judgement and he ended up taking a chunk of a hill near the Gaurishanker mountain. "You can still see a chunk missing there," says Rakesh Shrestha of Ccho-Rolpa Tours and Tavels. And even though you cannot clearly make out the pointed spot due to the distance, you will be surprised to find that your mind has all of a sudden acquired extra creativity. In a flash of a second, you have conjured up the image of the ape-god performing that wondrous feat.

That is not all. The Bhimeswor temple is not a new name to the god-fearing throughout the nation. People pour in every week from the capital and from various other districts to offer prayers to the God. During their visit, they don’t forget to ask one famous question, "Is the God sweating?" For they all have heard that if Bhimeswor sweats, that means something big is to happen. And that may be good or bad.

Legend has it that the despairing Lord Shiva traveled though this area, carrying the corpse of His beloved Sati Devi. The corpse of the goddess had decayed so badly that a piece of her flesh detached and fell down the gorges immediately north of Dolakha. Thus sprang up the temple of Tripura Sundari. Talk to the priest and he will confide that a certain golden icon was stolen from this beautiful temple years ago. Hence, the misfortune that has befallen the country ever since.

If you are there with your girlfriend, you might be lucky to steal some memorable moment at the Manjushree Park. Though decrepit with lack of maintenance, the park will spring up to life as soon as you step in. It will start whispering love-poetry through the branches of its old and wise trees. If you have an inclination to pen down verses, you might even end up writing some poems. But be careful, the ground is slippery. The dry grass will try its best to upset your balance. But then, it is a harmless mischief. Even if you slip and fall down six times or even a dozen times as I did, don’t curse the area. For there are forest-gods hovering around, and you might end-up infuriating them.

Evening has set in. The air is chillier than in the capital. But you are in no hurry to return back. Your heart has expanded considerably after breathing gallons of fresh air. So you venture out to the settlement. You meet people whose gravest concern is the conflict. But then, they talk of it as if it belongs to quite another world. Quite naturally, as Dolakha has been at peace since a long time. And the logic of conflict is something that they cannot understand, unless as some form of madness, spiritual illness, or moral pestilence.

Back to your quarters. Food directly from the fields is waiting for you. If your liver is not bad, you may try the local liquor Airakh and Tho. But don’t drink too much, as the brewers are experts and their product is stronger than the strongest whisky you have tried. Food is delicious, and you will be surprised to find out that your appetite has grown up tremendously.

While asleep, you will dream of building a house in Dolakha, getting married to a cute Dolkheli darling, and disappearing in the world of myths forever.

Good bye to a conservation hero

HUM GURUNG

For many Nepalis, Ghandruk is a catchy word. Many of them have frequently heard about this model Gurung village. The village has been set in a landscape of outstanding beauty, dominated by the snowy peaks of the Annapurna and Machhapuchhere.

When I went to the village as an employee of the Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) of the King Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation (KMTNC) in 1986, I met many people. One of them was Min Bahadur Gurung. I had the opportunity to work with him and his colleagues during the establishment of ACAP. As we were talking about resource conservation for our future generations it was difficult message to sell. But, after returning from New Zealand in 1993, I saw the work of ACAP was moving steadily. Today, ACAP is popular around the world for its work on ‘conservation for development’.

It was Min Bahadur who always shared his vision on development, the success and challenges of their works with the visitors of the village. Sadly, Min Bahadur died on 3 May.

Mingma Sherpa and Chandra Gurung, who were architects of ACAP and worked in partnership with the people of Ghandruk, said it was a great loss. In fact, Min Bahadur was a ‘conservation hero’, said Mingma. Min Bahadur, a charismatic leader, is no longer with us. ‘He was a simple, dynamic and great thinker’ said Chandra, country representative to WWF in Nepal. He was a persuasive orator and the villagers attentively listened his views on conservation.

Annapurna region is Nepal’s most popular trekking destinations. In the history of Nepal’s protected area management system, the people living around the area had always conflict with the park authorities. The reason was obvious. They were banned from their traditional rights of collecting firewood, fodder and timber from the forest. National parks were wire-fenced with army guards.

Min Bahadur Gurung and the villagers constantly worked in partnership with ACAP in addressing the basic needs of people first, so that conservation of the area becomes practical and meaningful, unlike that of national parks. He successfully led the Ghandruk’s Conservation Area Management Committee.

The conservation and development works in Ghandruk have been recognised nationally and internationally. As Ghandruk lies on the main trekking route of Annapurna, many tourists saw the innovative work in Ghandruk. In recognisation of their works, the committee was awarded one of the most prestigious conservation award in 1992 - the Paul Getty Wildlife Conservation Award. In 1994, the committee won the United Nations Environment Programme’s Global 500 Roll of Honour award.

It was not the end for the conservation hero. In 1995, late King Birendra awarded Min Bahadur the King Mahendra Trust’s Conservation Award for his dynamic leadership in conservation and development and mobilising the people for sustainable development.

He believed in the Nepali culture and tradition. He was always worried about the negative impacts of tourism in both nature and culture. When he left to United Kingdom to receive the international awards he wore a khachat. Min Bahadur met many Nepali living in London and they offered him even a tie and suit. But he refused to accept their offer.

He always listened the concerns and voices of his people. A western writer Charlie Pie-Smith wrote in his book called the wealth of communities that "No one doubts that the presence of several highly intelligent - and some would say, philanthropic- leaders has been a crucial factor. ‘Ten years ago’, said Min Gurung when we met him at his house one morning- tethered buffaloes champing in the shed, hens pecking around children eating rice and lentils, ‘there was no high school, no health clinic, no electricity; the trails were dangerous and the bridges were poor. Now things are much better." That was his satisfaction over his labour.

Although Min Bahadur died 13 days ago, he will be remembered and his practical thought – ‘Conservation isn’t something one person can be made responsible for. Even the government alone won’t be able to do anything. We all, the people and government, have to work together.’ – will be followed. We believe that his ideas will inspire every villagers of Ghandruk to maintain their village as a model for conservation and development.

(The author is a National Programme Manager of UNDP supported Sustainable Community Development Programme)