OPINION (Spotlight Weekly)

My Pilgrimage To Badri And Kedar

— Madhav Kumar Rimal

Pilgrimage to Badri and Kedar is not an uncommon event for any devout hindu. It is just like visiting Bethlehem to a Christian or Meeca to a muslim. Consequently, it might seem crazy to some why have I decided to write about my pilgrimage. I was only performing the filial duty of a son to his dead parents. But some of the experiences I gathered on my travels to Badri and Kedar have been quite unique. I have to idea whether any of the millions who traveled to these places before me felt the same way I did or met the same kind of people I met or made same kind of observations I did. Generally most people are obsessed with the only idea of offering their oblations to their "Pitries" — dead relations at the Brahma Kapali — the place where Brahma's fifth head had fallen. As the legends and beliefs go, the performance of "Saradha" at this place delivers the souls of the pitries all bondages of rebirth. Except blind faith there is no other way to establish the veracity of such beliefs. And it is almost impossible to pinpoint the time and date these exercises must have started.

We chartered a mini-bus from Hardware in uttaranchal — the newly formed state in north India — which is supposed to be the gateway to the sacred pilgrim cities in the Deva Bhoomi — the land of the Gods. Since there were thirteen persons in our party — all family members — we needed this minibus. Passing though some breath-taking natural scenery which is a specialty of the Himalayan kills and some hairpin bends when our hearts come to our mouths, we arrived at Gauri Kund the vehicle terminal to go to Kedar. The temple of Kedar Nath, situated at a height of about 14th thousand feet is fourteen kilometers walk — a very steep and narrow mountainous way from Gauri Kund — with my bruised knees due to osteoarthritis, my scaling that height even on a horse was out of question. So, I had to stay content at Gauri Kund. My frustration of not being able to visit Kedarnath was amply recompensed by my meeting a man in the late eighties at Gauri Kund. His great grand father had fought the British at Nalapani and had killed six British soldiers with his Khukri, Narrating the story of the war which he had heard from his father, he, at times, got excited. He told me that his great grand father's khukri was snatched away by the British and now must be bying in some museum in Dehradoon. Even at great persuasion he did not agree to reveal his identity lest he be pestered by the authorities. He was very emphatic on the point that majority of the people of Nepalese origin and many devout hindus had great have and respect for Nepal and the Nepalis. The next interesting experience was on our way to Badrinathji. We had stopped at a way side restaurant that looked tolerably clean and ordered our lunch. The owner of the restaurant was very apologetic that he was unable to provide much variety of food. He was fidgeting all the while trying to make us as much comfortable as possible. The price of all the food and soft drinks we consumed came to a paltry few hundred rupees which the owner of the restaurant would not accept at any cost. He said that the Hindu Kingdom — the only one in the world — was pride to all hindus and it would give him even greater happiness if he were able to show his respect in a bigger way. He left us no alternative but to give in to his request. we were, indeed, much impressed by his sincere manifestation of regard for our country and thanked him profusely. Even at the temple of Badrinath we were overwhelmed by the warmth and affection of the Pjujaris. They took special time to explain to us the symbolic appreciation of the deity. Their spontaneous expression of affection and regard for Nepal was at times quite embarrassing. I was so much taken aback by their, simple and innocent sincerity that I invariably started comparing the behavior of the Indian media and the Indian policy makers. Where would Nepal-India relations ascend if only the Indian establishment honored Nepalis sensitivity and stopped behaving like a bully?

On our way back home from Badrinath we decided to spend a couple of days in Hardware. Hardwar is a city of temples with many gorgeous temples built after India's independence from the colonial rule some five decades back. And one of them is that of "Bharat Mata -- or Mother India". It was inaugurated by the then Indian Prime minister, the late Indira Gandhi in 1983. There is a big relief map of India in the hall which shows only India and the Himalayas. I approached the temple authority and asked him what was the meaning of this map, why Nepal was not shown south of the Himalayas? A young man standing by the side of the authority insolently said, "It is in the belly of Bharat Mata." I was astounded by his impudence. I slowly turned towards him and told him very sternly "Young man, do you know the place you are standing on once was Nepalese territory. It was taken away from Nepal and given to you as a legacy by your colonial masters?" The young man was dumbfounded. The temple authority intervened saying, ì Please, do not mind his senseless words. I really do not know why they have done it like that. It is, indeed, strange."

Another interesting happening in that sojourn was my meeting a Sadhu -- a religious man who has renounced all worldly relations. He was well educated, highly versed in the philosophy of Hindu religion. After we exchanged formal courtesies he offered me a seat. Although I was in a hurry to accompany my fellow travelers, I could not turn down his request and sat down. We discussed the modern trends in the practice of Hindu religion. He seemed much frustrated at the distortions and aberrations that had engulfed the pristine religion. He was very critical of the rulers in India for not showing deserving respect for their religion. He was all praise for Nepal and the Hindu King. He said he found better peace, contentment and solace whenever he visited Nepal which he did frequently. He thought the real "Aryavarta" was Nepal and Nepal only could defend and preserve the Hindu religion in its glory and true form. I was much impressed by his uninhibited manifestations of regard for Nepal and sincerely thanked him and took leave to join my team.

This pilgrimage to Badrinathji and Kedarnathji was thus very rewarding for me. I could really feel the pulse of the overwhelming millions of Indians' regard for my small country. Even though religion is not a very strong bond in state to state relations, it will not be possible to totally ignore the indelible feeling of commonality that influence the thinking of hundreds of millions of Indians for Nepal. Let us hope the Indian officialdom will some day come to terms with reality and earn the regard of Nepalese people by according them the respect they command by virtue of being proud citizens of an independent and sovereign country.