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Vol. 21 :: No. 32
THE NATIONAL NEWSMAGAZINE
Feb22 - Feb28 ,
2002.
BOOK

BOOK
Kathmandu Kaleidoscope

An astute observer describes the changing face of the valley

By KESHAB POUDEL

Kathmandu has seen tremendous changes in its five-decade-long march toward modernization. The saga of how a valley, which was unknown to the outside world for centuries, turned into a popular tourist destination is as enchanting as it is gripping. When Kathmandu was first opened to foreigners, it was almost instantly known for its isolation-driven pristine and safe character.

At a time when the country is in the midst of a robust debate on the development process, Gyanendra P. Adhikari Hanson provides a vivid portrayal of the transformation of Kathmandu. The book is a comparative study of what Kathmandu was in the past and is today. The feelings of a tourist who visited Nepal in the 1950s and in 1990s are very vividly and graphically portrayed.

One of the important features of the book is the author's remembrance of the two founding fathers of Nepalese tourism industry. "We cannot forget Tom Mendies and Boris Lissanvitch whose ceaseless efforts made tourism a sustainable industry in Nepal, but are today lost and forgotten in the very industry they pioneered by their sweat, labor and foresight," says Adhikari.

Adhikari begins the book with a story of an adventure-loving tourist who came to Nepal in late 1951, when the country was little known to the outside world. To visit Nepal was like to go to Mars or the moon because a traveler had to wait sometimes for weeks to land at Kathmandu airport, which was built at a grazing ground for cows (Gaucharan). The flight on cranky DC-3 aircraft with limited communication facilities was itself a life-threatening challenge. But there were many things to enjoy.

Although Adhikari presents his narrative through dramatic incidents, he tells real-life stories of the ancient valley. Fifty years ago, the valley had only one hotel and a restaurant with limited facilities. Today, urbanization has drastically transformed the face of Kathmandu valley, which exudes many features of a modern city. Adhikari sees these changes as drastic and, in many cases, unimaginable.

Although the book reads like a short story, it encapsulates the history, geography, economics, politics and culture of the valley. The life of a tourist in the early 1950s was slow and rustic but it was full of pleasure. There were many interesting things to see in Nepal. Today, everything is different. In terms of modern facilities, Kathmandu valley now has everything to boast of. But it is rapidly losing its beauty and tranquillity. "The book is a mixed bag of history, geography, economics, politics and culture — all combining together to make it to be read like a novel and would make a lively movie," says Professor Prem Raman Uprety.

The book is divided into several chapters. Hair Raising Flight and Nepal: Half a Century Later narrate the two contradictory situations of the country. Browsing Through the Bazaar and Dinner with Mr. Rana tell powerful stories of disparities in Kathmandu in early 1950s.

At a wider level, this book should also provide an answer to those development critics who have been arguing that no significant change has occurred in the last 50 years. Thanks to the painstaking effort of Adhikari, one gets an opportunity to read about two different phases of Kathmandu and draw one's own conclusions.

Reminiscences of Nepal
By Gyanendra P. Adhikari Hanson
Published by Adhikari Brothers
Pages: 187
Price: Not disclosed


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