National 7 (Spotlight Weekly)

Mugling Melancholy

A bustling township has fallen on hard times as buses head for other stops along the East-West Highway

By AKSHAY SHARMA in Mugling

The East-West Highway is Nepal’s only land-linked route to the outside world. With the completion of the road link in different phases over the decades, Nepalese have avoided the oddity of having to traverse Indian territory while traveling from one part of the country to another.

Following the construction of Prithvi Highway, which links Kathmandu with Pokhara, in the early 1970s, the settlement of Mugling, 144 km west of the capital, emerged as a hub for bus travelers. With the completion of the Mugling-Narayanghat section of the highway, the township grew into a bustling junction for people from all over the country.

Lines of buses could be seen parked alongside restaurants and eateries, as passengers alighted for breakfast, lunch or dinner midway through a long and tiring journey.

Mugling has fallen on hard times. The town wears a barren look, as buses head for other places along the highway. The days when anything less than a stopover for a good meal in Mugling was regarded as an act of timidity has receded into memory.

The decline began as complaints grew against the quality of food being served in the township. "We used to love the dal and bhat in Mugling," remembers 24-year-old Paras Pyakurel, who was heading for the western town of Butwal. "But the quality of food here has deteriorated." Tales of shady business practices in Mugling paved the way for paeans to delightful establishments along other parts of the highway.

Some might attribute competition among bus operators to the place’s decline in fortunes. "We have the responsibility to make sure our passengers reach their destinations on time," says Raju Lama, a bus driver for Priyanka Travels. "In the past, there were only a few places where a person could get a decent meal and Mugling happened to be one of them."

How much responsibility does the township bear for its plight? "The quality of food in Mugling went down as people when starving will eat anything to fill their belly," says Mahendra Budhathoki, who has been driving along the highway for 30 years and currently works for Agni Yatayat.

Locals are quick to rebut that charge. "We still serve the best food along the highway," says Yuv Raj Khatiwada, who runs an eatery at Mugling.

It was competition sparked by changing food habits that triggered Mugling’s boom in the first place. In the early days of road travel, people would prefer to carry home-packed meals during their journey. Soon many travelers found it more convenient to eat out.

With these changes, competition on the roadside was bound to grow. Drivers and bus staff began getting rebates on their meals, while some received cash from establishments grateful for the clientele they brought.

Entrepreneurs on other points along the highway seemed to have sensed business opportunities. "We used to have plenty of passengers flocking for food here," says Geeta Gurung of Himalayan Hotel. "But competition has grown. Bus drivers have the choice to pick and choose where they want to stop to let the passengers have a decent meal."

Road conditions, too, are blamed. "I drive all the way to Nepalgunj and because of landslides, I do not have the time to stop at Mugling for a meal," says Sabin Shrestha who drives for Kantipur Super Coach. "I have a deadline to meet. Due to the torrential rain these days, I would rather prefer some other places further along the highway to stop for a meal."

Mugling’s experience affirms a cardinal rule of the market: it’s the consumer’s choice that counts. It also holds the key to the township’s revival.