Cover Story (Spotlight Weekly)

TREKKING
An Endless Trail Of Fascination

After the first successful ascent of Mount Everest, the attention of all adventure-loving people around the world was focused on an exotic destination called Nepal. Walking on a breath-taking trail, following glaciers, criss-crossing jungles, rugged terrain and awesome mountains and hills, what first began as routine hike slowly turned into a novel concept called trekking. From the early days of the 1950s and 1960s, trekking has developed into a full-fledged industry. It is one of the pillars of the tourism sector. Almost 40 percent of tourists coming to Nepal go on short or long treks. But due to less-than-energetic promotion of adventure tourism in the international market, the sector has not been able to tap its full potential. And like other sectors, trekking, too, is suffering from the fall-out of the country's worsening law and order situation

By SANJAYA DHAKAL

Trekkers describe Nepal as a repository of adventure tourism. From high hills and snow-capped mountains to ridges, passes, jungles, fauna and flora and exquisite communities, there is everything a foreigner would like to experience.

Unlike mountaineers who climb high mountains, trekkers just walk. They walk through jungles, criss-cross the rugged terrains and get the first-hand experience of being so close to Mother Nature.

Immediately after Nepal was opened to foreigners and tourists, the first thing that attracted them was the kingdom's unmatched natural beauty. And after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenz Everest. Slowly this developed into the concept we today know as trekking," said Suman Pandey, president of Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN).

What started as sight-seeing tours to the Himalayas snow-balled into a huge and self-sustaining industry called trekking. Trekking today has become synonymous with adventure tourism in Nepal. Though it started in Nepal, trekking has now spread to places like India, Pakistan, Tibet, Europe and South America. "We must thank pioneers like Robin Maston, Col. Everest. Slowly this developed into the concept we today know as trekking," said Suman Pandey, president of Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN).

What started as sight-seeing tours to the Himalayas snow-balled into a huge and self-sustaining industry called trekking. Trekking today has become synonymous with adventure tourism in Nepal. Though it started in Nepal, trekking has now spread to places like India, Pakistan, Tibet, Europe and South America. "We must thank pioneers like Robin Maston, Col. James Roberts, Dawa Nuru Sherpa, Dwarika Shrestha and others including the Mountain Travel, which is the first trekking agency in the country, who made this sector like it is today," said Pandey (See box).

"Earlier we didn't even call it trekking. When tourists came to our Snowview Hotel in around 1957 and said they want to walk into the mountains, we used to arrange 7-day trek to Helambu. Gradually, this kind of practice flourished and trekking prospered," said Gyanendra Adhikary Hanson, an expert in tourism and trekking. According to him, Nepal is the best place in world for trekking. "But, unfortunately, we do not have proper policies to grasp these potentials." Adhikary said he finds it very sad to note that wrong people have entered the sector of tourism and trekking. "The exorbitant prices they charge for entering national parks that are in the trekking routes is just like killing the goose that lays golden eggs."

Trekking Destinations

"Man by nature cannot live in confinement. He seeks change to invigorate himself from time to time. He is always tempted to experience a new taste of life in the exotic society," wrote Ramesh Raj Kunwar, tourism anthropologist in his book "Anthropology of Tourism".

No wonder, hundreds of thousands of tourists have been attracted to Nepal by its mystic culture and exotic natural beauty. Apart from mountaineering and understanding cultural heritage, tourists come to Nepal to be close to nature. The majestic scenes of natural beauty in a country that boasts the world's highest mountain and deepest gorge have lured adventure lovers from far and wide.

There are numerous trekking destinations in Nepal. From east to west and from north to south, different trekking routes cater to different tastes. Whereas Everest trekking can take one close to the high mountains, Mustang trekking takes one to the "hidden kingdom" with a unique cultural heritage. In a country where a road network is still to be extensively developed, trekking is the only way to get close to Himalayas. Even those wanting to better understand the various ethnic communities have to trek through the country-side. Trekking is seasonal with most people coming in October-November. March-April is the other season.

Different trekking routes in Nepal have different characteristics. Most of the trekking routes also pass through national parks and wildlife reserves where the bio-diversity is preserved. As the trekking routes invariably lead to high mountains, they are also named after these mountains. "Mostly, these routes follow the glaciers and end up near the base of such mountains. For instance, the Kanchenjunga route follows the Kaveli river, the Makalu route follows the Arun river, the Everest region or Khumbu trekking route follows the Dudhkosi river, the Rolwaling route follows the Tamakosi river, the Langtang route follows the Trishuli river, the Annapurna route follows Marsyangdi river, the Manaslu route follows the Budhigandaki river and so on," said Pandey. However, there are routes like Mustang and Dolpo in the north-west, which can be considered culture-oriented.

There are 8-10 routes that are most favorite ones including (from east to west) Kanchenjunga, Khumbu, Annapurna, Langtang, Mustang, Dolpa, Jumla-Rara and so on. Even among these, the three most favorite trekking routes include Everest area or Khumbu (2-3 weeks duration), Annapurna (2-3 weeks) and Langtang (2 weeks).

The Annapurna circuit or round Annapurna has been known as one of the most beautiful trekking routes. "The scenes of sun rise from Pun hill and Ghorepani and the view of Annapurna mountain can never fade from the mind after one visits this route," said Jeet Bahadur Tamang, a trekking guide who has been to most routes in the country. Tamang, who has been trekking for the last 25 years, said Dolpo region in the west, too, provides some wonderfully exotic scenery.

The round Annapurna trekking usually takes around 17 days to complete. Starting from Besisahar, Lamjung, the trekkers travel via Chame, Manang and cross the Throng La pass (5,416m high) to reach Muktinath in eleven days. From there, the trekkers walk to Pokhara passing through such exquisite locations as Ghorepani, Ghandruk and Dhampus. "There are places in the route where you will find yourself walking so high that planes can be seen flying below you," said Tamang.

Equally popular is trekking to the Everest region. "I have come to Nepal more than fifteen times and each time trekking in Everest region is equally exciting, wonderful and full of eagerness," Bernhard Duechting, a German trekker who visited Everest region on October 2002, wrote in the newsletter of TAAN. Because of their huge popularity, the concept of tea-house trekking has developed in Annapurna, Everest and Langtang routes. Tourists not affiliating to any registered trekking company and individual back-packers take to these routes that are strewn with hotels and lodges. The people living along these routes transform their private homes into tea-houses or lodges and cater to such individual trekkers.

The duration of trekking varies from 1 day to 3 months. For trekkers who want to visit the mountains from east to west of the country, it takes 3 months or more. "But such long treks are rare. Mostly tourists want to trek from one to 3 weeks," said Hari Man Lama, chief of the reputed Sansui Treks.

For those who want to engage in short trekking and have a look around the Kathmandu valley, the trekking agencies have developed package called Kathmandu Valley Rim Trekking. This trekking route ranges from 1 to 5 days covering hill-sides around the valley. "This kind of rim trekking provides a unique opportunity to better understand the culture of the community living in the valley periphery as well as witness spectacular scenes of mountains, the valley and people," said a trekking guide.

Areas in Taplejung, Solukhumbu, Sankhuwasabha, Mustang, Humla, Darchula and Manang districts, previously restricted to trekkers have been declared open recently by the government. The new system now allows tourists to visit Olangchungola area of Kanchenjunga region, Hatiya, Topkhegola area of Upper Sankhuwasabha, Nangpala pass of Solukhumbu region, Nar and Phu areas of Northern Manang, Limi village of Simikot area and Mt. Vyas Rishi area at the north-western corner of Nepal.

Due to the worsening law and order situation, trekking sector, too, has been hit. "Though the effect on trekking sector is not extensive, we find there is an environment of presumed fear that is keeping prospective trekkers away. There has been a significant drop in the number of trekkers," said Pandey. The drop in the number of trekkers in 2002 is corresponding with the 28 percent drop in the total number of tourists compared to previous year.

Although news reports speak of trekkers being harassed by the Maoists, Pandey claims that most of them are untrue and exaggerated. "Hundreds of trekkers went trekking this last season and there was no problem," he said.

"We set off for the mountains just after the strike had ended, and apart from regular army check posts and newspaper reports, there was little evidence of the current turmoil. However, on the trek itself, the evidence soon became clearer. Lodge owners, teahouses and souvenir stalls were vying for our business, all with the sorry tale that drop in numbers of trekkers was severely affecting them. It is hard to say how many will survive in the current climate. The impact on us however, was no hardship, as we had an array of lodges to choose from each night, and few other trekkers on the trail," wrote Mary Lancaster, a British trekker who had visited Annapurna circuit last season in the TAAN newsletter upon her return. "My conclusion is that it is our responsibility to Nepal to continue to support the trekking industry without which, the economy might crumble. The FCO warns of the dangers of being caught in the crossfire, but Sept 11 showed us that this could just as easily happen where you least expect it."

Economics Of Trekking

Trekking industry has a huge turnover. There are 400 registered trekking agencies and hundreds of thousands of people, including trekking guides, porters, cooks, Sherpas and others who are directly supported by this industry. Indirect benefit is also extensively distributed to local communities who engage in seasonal business along the routes.

According to Pandey, at least 125,000 tourists go on trekking every year in the country. For every trekker, there has to be 1.5 support staff including guides, cooks, porters, Sherpas etc. On average they go on 10 days of trekking and spend 500 dollars each.

Likewise, the employment opportunities provided by trekking industry is also quite considerable. Apart from support staff, there will be hundreds of thousands of people living along the routes who indirectly benefit from it. "The most important part is that the trekking assures the circulation of money directly to the communities," Pandey said.

Agrees a senior official at the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB). "The government recognizes the vast contribution and prospects of trekking sector. The board, too, has special programs to market Nepal as destination for adventure tourism abroad,' said Tek Bahadur Dangi, acting chief executive officer at the NTB.

Gyanendra Adhikary Hanson further underscores the significance of trekking in boosting local economy. "When we trekked we used to buy local flowers, vegetables, fruits and foodstuffs, thus helping in the actual spread-out of money."

The trekking sector holds tremendous potential to expand and promote the tourism sector and subsequently boost Nepal's economy, once the current situation of turmoil in the country as well as in the world dissipates.

'Nepal Pioneered The Concept Of Trekking In The World'

— SUMAN PANDEY

Suman Pandey is the president of Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN). An experienced tourism entrepreneur, Pandey heads Explore Himalaya Travel and Adventure. He spoke to SANJAYA DHAKAL on the development and prospects of the trekking sector in the country. Excerpts:

Would you shed some light on the history and development of trekking in Nepal?

We are proud to say that Nepal pioneered the concept of trekking in the world. In the 1950s after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made the first successful ascent of Mount Everest, Nepal came into international focus and many tourists became fascinated with this country. This kick-started the process whereupon some innovative entrepreneurs and foreigners - some of whom even worked in missionaries - began seeking special permits for interested tourists and took them on the trail to see Mount Everest. Slowly this developed into the concept we today know as trekking. Trekking today has become a successful industry in Nepal. And it has already spread to places like India, Pakistan, Tibet, Europe and South America. We must thank pioneers like Robin Maston, Col. James Roberts, Dawa Nuru Sherpa, Dwarika Shrestha and others, including Mountain Travel, which is the first trekking agency in the country, who made this sector like it is today.

What percentage of tourists who come to Nepal go trekking?

If we do not take into account the recent upheavals in this sector, our tourism industry was running on average of around 500,000 tourists per annum. Of which 30 percent go on trekking. If you only consider those tourists who came to make holidays, 45-50 percent go on trekking - long or short.

How many trekking routes are there in Nepal? Which are the most popular ones?

The trekking routes in Nepal depend on the Himalayas. The routes are also named after these mountains. Mostly, these routes follow the glaciers and end up near the base of such mountains. For instance, the Kanchenjunga route follows the Kaveli river, the Makalu route follows the Arun river, the Everest region or Khumbu trekking route follows the Dudhkosi river, the Rolwaling route follows the Tamakosi river, the Langtang route follows the Trishuli river, the Annapurna route follows Marsyangdi river, the Manaslu route follows the Budhigandaki river and so on. There are routes like Mustang and Dolpo, which can be considered as culture-oriented. There are 8-10 routes that are most favorite with trekkers, including (from east to west) Kanchenjunga, Khumbu, Annapurna, Langtang, Mustang, Dolpa, Jumla-Rara and so on. Even among these, the three most favorite trekking routes include Everest area or Khumbu (2-3 weeks duration), Annapurna (2-3 weeks) and Langtang (2 weeks).

Which countries do most trekkers come from?

Mostly they are European, American and South-east Asian, in that order. Gradually, the culture of trekking is taking root in South Asia, as well. Indians are currently exploring trekking routes within their country. Later, they would surely be attracted to Nepal. Likewise, the younger generation of Nepalese have shown increasing interest in trekking. We plan to develop special packages to attract more of them.

What is the average cost of a trek?

It is difficult to give exact costs. Trekking, basically, is a mobile hotel. It gives all kinds of services that hotels provide. But it moves from one place to another. Just like the cost of a hotel depends on the level/quality of service, so does that of trekking. From a minimum of 15 dollars a day to 100-150 dollars a day - the cost varies. And the duration of trekking, too, depends on the route. From a short one-day hike to three months of east-west trekking, there is a wide variety on offer. Usually, foreigners prefer treks of between one day and 3-4 weeks.

What major problems does the sector face at present?

The present problem is that of law and order. Until now, no harm has been done to tourists/trekkers, although we take them to far-flung areas where the police administration is virtually non-existent. But due to the overall environment of presumed fear, the sector is getting hurt. As far as other policy-related issues are concerned, there are some decisions that the government has made in keeping with our demand. Some are in the process of being made and so on. For instance, the government recently agreed to open 18 new areas for trekking as per our request. These areas, which were closed in 1960s, have been opened. Though they may not be sufficient to rescue the sector from other problems, they will definitely give relief to the sector to certain extent. We don't believe that opening of these areas would lure herds of trekkers, but it does send out a positive message to our international clientele. But we still have objections regarding the appointment of environment/liaison officer for certain trekking routes.

What about news reports of trekkers being harassed by the Maoists?

As far as we know, tourists have not been hurt. Recently, there were news reports on harassment of trekkers. However, when we investigated it, we found the news was not fully true. There have been some reports of extortion, but even that is minuscule. There has been no physical threat to any tourists till now. We strongly object to the portrayal of Nepal as being unsafe for tourists.

How is the infrastructure on trekking routes?

In routes like Everest area, Annapurna and Langtang, where trekking has been going on for the last five decades, there has been certain development of infrastructure. The people and community living in these areas have begun to benefit by opening small hotels called teahouses and other similar facilities. So, in these areas we also find individual back-packers trekking on their own. These trekkers do not take any help of professional trekking agencies and travel on their own. This is also called teahouse trekking. But in other areas, they need to have logistical support and, therefore, have to depend on professional trekking agencies.

TAAN is celebrating silver jubilee this year. What new programs does it have?

TAAN was formed 25 years ago by two dozen trekking agencies. With 400 members today, it is probably the biggest tourism organization in Nepal. The association works towards coordinating efforts for the fulfillment of the rights and interests of trekking industry. Likewise, it assists the government in adopting relevant policies and programs to promote this sector. The association also joins hands with other related organizations like Nepal Tourism Board, Hotel Association of Nepal and Nepal Association of Travel Agents for the sake of destination promotion. We will be organizing a number of programs for the welfare, promotion and marketing of the industry to celebrate the silver jubilee.

'Trekking Is In Our Blood'

— HARI MAN LAMA

Hari Man Lama is the chief of Sansui Treks and an executive member of Trekking Agents Association of Nepal (TAAN). He spoke to SANJAYA DHAKAL on key issues of trekking. Excerpts:

How is the trekking sector at present?

Trekking has become one of the pillars of the tourism industry. In fact, it is trekking and mountaineering that have lured hundreds of thousands of tourists to this beautiful country. Besides, trekking is a discipline we should be proud of. It is Nepal that taught the world the pleasures of trekking. The trekking sector is very vibrant and profitable to country. But due to obvious reasons, not only trekking but so many other vital economic sectors are getting affected.

How could Nepal develop trekking so successfully?

Apart from abundance of natural beauty and tough trails, I believe trekking is in the blood Nepalese. If we go to villages and look at the lives of people there, we can easily see how close trekking is to their daily existence. We find women trekking up to hours just to fetch water. Children trek for hours to reach their schools and men do the same to travel from one village to another. No wonder, Nepal is so rich in trekking.

How do you see the future of trekking?

The future of trekking is very bright. As more and more tourists want to engage in adventure tourism, the number of trekkers will increase in the coming days. But we still lack effective promotional campaigns to lure trekkers from abroad as well as from neighborhood. Nepal has comparative advantage in trekking. The mountains, the glaciers, forests, fauna and flora and breath-taking scenes will always lure people from far and near. The only thing is we have to keep our house in order.

What about promoting domestic trekking?

Absolutely, this is one area that still remains to be tapped. In fact, there are enough middle class families in urban areas of our country who can afford trekking. The prevalent concept is that trekking is strictly for foreigners. We have to break this mentality. Trekking is not only enjoyable but also good for health. I find some youngsters interested to trek. This is a good trend.

Do you have any specific plan to promote domestic trekking?

Yes, we have. TAAN plans to organize a promotional domestic trek very soon. Artistes like Madan Krishna Shrestha, Hari Bansha Acharya, film celebrities, singers, businessmen, journalists and others would be invited to this campaign. We expect such familiarization and promotional trek would go a long way in developing this sector.

'Most Trekkers Make Regular Trips To Nepal'

— JEET BAHADUR TAMANG

Jeet Bahadur Tamang, 47, has been working as trekking guide for the last 25 years. He has been to almost all trekking routes in the country. Father of two sons, Tamang spoke to SANJAYA DHAKAL about his trekking experiences. Excerpts:

How much do you enjoy trekking?

Since I was born in Sailung village in Dolakha, walking was nothing new. After I joined this profession by obtaining a guide's license from the government, I have gone to numerous places taking numerous foreigners. It is a difficult but enjoyable profession. Although this is not a very lucrative work in terms of money, it is not bad either.

You have been to many trekking routes. Which ones do you find the most beautiful?

In the past, I used to find Annapurna region very beautiful. Even now, the scenic beauty offered by this route is matchless. The sunrise you see from Pun Hill and Ghorepani area is extraordinary. But this route has become crowded. There are many villages on the route. Everest region has its own charms. These days, I find Dolpa region more exciting.

How do you find the foreigners you take for trekking?

Well most of them are pretty serious about trekking. I have found that many Europeans practice for months before they come to Nepal for trekking. There are many foreigners who come to Nepal for trekking regularly. In fact, once a person goes for trekking, he or she can hardly forget the experience. More often than not, these people make repeated visits.

How much do you earn from trekking?

We do not earn much. When on trekking, we get Rs.250-300 per day. Sometimes we get good tips. In fact, I have opened a small restaurant to sustain my livelihood. Trekking can be done only on seasons. October-November or March-April is the trekking season. For the rest of the year, you have to engage on other chores. In fact, I go to France every year in our monsoon season to work at a hotel near Mont Blanc.

How has the trekking sector suffered from the current situation in the country?

Definitely, the sector is a little down. The number of trekkers has fallen compared to previous years. But still the sector has not been affected as much as is being reported.

There are reports that the Maoists have looted trekkers at times. What do you say?

Well, I am not aware of that. No such incident happened during my trekking tour. Just last November I had been to Annapurna region. Nothing happened to us. I, too, have heard that Maoists asked some trekkers for money. But I have not experienced any such thing during my tour.