May Andersen Enchanted

Kedar Bantawa

The white snowflakes were falling white. The Machhapuchhre and Annapurna Himalayan ranges shone beautiful. Though this Himalayan beauty was not new to me, Mrs Andersen and Lawrence lost themselves in the enchanting beauty. We had reached Tadhapani after staying in Ghandruk the previous night.

The sunrays were moving on the mountain peaks. The previous night we had stayed up chatting with the lodge owner, despite our schedule requiring us to make an early start the next morning. The villagers were talking about a tourist’s death in the forest just a week before.

I became suspicious but I didn’t tell them about it. But we did not face any difficulties because we had a guide. I feel that a journey is always successful if a local guide is hired.

Miss Pabitra Gurung was the lodge owner of the Annapurna lodge in Ghandruk that we stayed in. I also met my old friend Bal Ram Neupane who was camping there with a group of 25 Australian students. We talked till late about our past, without actually noticing the time. The next day, we had to walk for five hours to reach Tadhapani. It was a long walk through the jungle of rhododendron trees.

We walked in the snow. The tall rhododendron trees stood side by side throughout our journey. Spring was approaching. We could see about four colours in the rhododendron bushes — dark red, light red, white and violet. It would have been a pleasant experience if we had arrived here a month later when the youthful blooms of rhododendron would be perfect. We continued our journey downhill throwing snow and reached the Sunny Guest House at Ghorepani.

Dhan Bahadur was telling us about the Super View Lodge- (Pointing to the lodge on the way to Poon hill)

"Look at the lodge, no Nepalis can go there"

He went on, after I showed more curiosity-

"He will allow nobody in except foreigners."

Similarly, he also told us about a quarrel with one Indian tourist.

As I heard him I felt like asking him

"If that’s so, is he a man from another planet ?"

When one reaches Ghorepani and returns back without visiting Poon hill, the journey is not complete.

We had to climb uphill after getting up at 5:00 in the morning with a torchlight. The lovely sunrise from there makes one feel lucky as if being reborn no matter how frustrating one’s life maybe. Words aren’t enough to describe the beauty of Poon hill. Poon hill overwhelmed us with its beauty. It arouses in us the wish to spend years there, writing poems and meditating, always. We forget such heavens exist on Earth, but perhaps foreign tourists knowing these places exist enjoy traveling.

We continued on our journey through the jungle. Very few trekkers could be seen on the way.

Everyone utters the same word "Namaste" (good morning) on the way. Every tourist is already taught this word. As we were walking, it seemed as if it would snow. The snow-capped peaks were glittering from Tadhapani like walls. We could clearly identify the peaks one by one, Annapurna 1,2 and 3, Himchuli, Lamjung and several others.

Occasionally, the clear sound of airplanes flying in the sky could be heard, as it was the usual route for the twin otters and helicopters flying on the Jomsom- Pokhara route.

When we woke up in the morning the forests were anticipating a rhododendron bloom and the snow spread over the slopes.

And aging while descending, how difficult it was to go down hill above Tikhedhunga. We had begun that day after lunch at Nangethanti.

I still remember the place above Banthati Ulleri where a lady, Bhuwandevi Pun had said "Brother, don’t have to pay for the "milik tea", It was her pronunciation of ‘milk tea’ in Nepali . How sweet were her words!

It was our compulsion to go through the passes with occasional drinks of hot ‘milk tea’ and ‘balyak’ coffee (black coffee) to ward off the snowfall, chilling cold and the ground fog.

"Kyarne ta ni" – a local dialect to say, "what should we do now" an "amchha ta" – meaning I have a habit for this dialect.

"Only "ekunta" – (One or single in local dialect) tourist makes us difficult to wait for the season" a girl in Banthati says while she gives us more tea.

The grievances of Bhuwan Devi Pun have proved true because of my being unable to send her the photos.

"Though you have taken our photographs, I don’t believe you will send it"

she had said.

But the snowfall resembling cotton didn’t subside throughout the day.

In Pokhara, we felt the Phewa Park of Bishnu had not forgotten us. We were relating our experiences till midnight sipping first class local wine made from millet brought from Sainik Basti where his mother had made it, where I still remember Andersen saying in jest, "No drink, no wife, no smoking and no meat," At times, the eyes of Andersen and Lawrence could be seen gazing at lonely settlements under the influence of Rakshi.

She meant we must stay away from these four things if we are to reduce our weight. They were also vegetarian.

They were thinking of spending many days in the enchanting beauty of Pokhara again. While returning to Kathamandu, from Pokhara, their love for Nepal was evident by the two drops of tears they shed while parting with Gam Bahadur.

Chirait to boost income

Nepalese flora is rich in medicinal plants, which have Ayurvedic, yellowpathic, aromatic and other values. It was made plain at the recently held Symposium on Conservation and Utilization of Himalayan Medical Resources at Kathmandu that over 1500 plant species available in Nepal possess medicinal value.

Previously 700 species were identified. The Nepalese of different ethnicities and localities have been traditionally using the medical plant resources to cure various diseases, disorders, and ailments for generations. According to estimations, about 70 percent of the population directly or indirectly rely on traditional medicine. However, not all species have been equally important for common use. Exploration and utilization of the vast resources is lacking in the country. In reality, only a few species have been important for economic and commercial purposes. Chiraito (Swertia chirata), is one of the important medicinal herbs collected and imported from all of the 5 development regions.

The whole plant is used for various medicinal purposes such as fevers, pains, burns, inflammations, a liver stimulant, urinary discharge, ulcer, cancer, tonic to gout etc.

Chiraito has been a source of income for the high hill farmers and traders for several decades. A major portion is exported to India, a little to Europe and other Asian countries. However, the export of the plant has been in decline. Because of its broad-spectrum values there is an increasing demand from abroad for both Ayurvedic as well as yellowpathic medicines. There is competition for early collections of chiraito from its natural habitat. Premature harvesting before shedding the seeds has led to extinction along with regeneration problems during the last few decades. Deforestation, overgrazing, population pressures are other factors. No special attention has been paid for its conservation, domestication and commercial cultivation. However, some attempts have been made by certain organizations (PAC, CCODER, HPCC etc). Research on propagation and cultivation practices have been initiated in the Agricultural Research Station in Pakhribas, Dhankuta under the Nepal Agricultural Research Council during the last 3-4 years. Different agronomic practices have to be developed however. It was revealed that Chiraito seedlings could be successfully raised in the nursery in altitudes of 1800-2300m. Three-month-old seedlings could be transplanted into the field and harvested within one and a half years at Pakhribas (1800m above sea level).

Efforts have been made during 1999-2000 for the conservation and cultivation of Chiratito in community forests and private lands through the media (newspapers, posters, and radio, TV) NGOs resulting in a significant impact on people’s awareness. The Chiraito Conservation and Development Committee formed at Basantapur in the eastern hill district has been working for the last two years for the promotion of Chiraito. If the metric could be continued for a further 2-3 years the declining export sales of Chiraito from 255 metric tonnes of the last two years could be raised up and balanced to 419 metric tonnes as of six years ago. It is noteworthy that the government has been collecting good revenue (millions of Rupees) from Chiraito. The collectors, farmers and traders have also benefited from the trade of this product. Its price in the last year was as high as Rs16000 per mound (Rs 400 per kilo), which is nearly equal to the value of cardamom. By adopting the new developed technology, farmers and FUGs of the alpine climate areas can grow Chiraito in private as well as communal land, harvest more Chiraito and generate more income in the future. For this, the role of extension agencies and INGOs will be invaluable in the dissemination of technologies for the promotion of Chiraito. If so, it will be a step in the right direction proving that medicinal plants are also part of the sustainable wealth of Nepal. But there should be appropriate policies from the government, action plans and programmes on the research and development.

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