Flying High

Forty years back, aspiring mountaineers—and trekkers—had to hike for at least three weeks to go closer to Mount Everest, the highest peak, and additional one or two months to make an attempt to ascend. A few decades on, making an eye-to-eye contact with Everest, or Kanchenjunga, or Annapurna, is not a big deal. It is just a matter of an hour or less. Nepal’s booming domestic airlines sector—and not to forget the state-owned RNAC—has helped make it happen. Every morning, as the Sun rises in the Himalayas, at least half-a-dozen airlines fly people towards the glistening peaks. Indeed, Mountain Flights in Nepal have become one of the world’s most spectacular flights. Writes Surendra Phuyal 

In a hundred ages of the gods
I could not tell thee the glories of the Himalayas
As the Sun dries morning dew
So are the sins dissipated at the sight of the Himalayas — Purana (ancient Hindu scriptures)

Lord Shiva, or Mahadeva, the God of Hindu gods and goddesses, lives in the Himalayas. Hindu devotees believe that Mahadeva and his beloved wife, Goddess Parvati, still live there—in Kailash Parwat which lies somewhere near Lake Mansarobar in the Tibetan side of the Himalayas. The myths are old. And so are the snow clads mountains of varying shapes and sizes.

Nepal, situated on the lap of the mid-Himalayas, boasts of world’s such tallest mountains like Everest, Kanchangungha, Annapurna, Makalu and so forth. Equally important, these mountains with dozens of snow-hung glaciers and hundreds of glacial lakes—which form the basis of the rivers flowing down the Indian subcontinent. To sum up, the highest snowland on earth does not only provide opportunities for adventure-seekers from around the world but it also offers breathtaking and spectacular views of its heavenly landscapes.

Thousands and thousands of people from around the world come to Nepal each year just to catch a glimpse of the glorious mountains, if not to feel or climb over them. Their trip to Nepal tends to remain incomplete if they don’t see the Himalayan peaks, Nepal’s most prized possession. If you happen to make an eye-to-eye contact with any of these mountains, that moment will be one of the unforgettable moments of your life. So much so that you may feel like your sins have been dissipated.

For the last few decades, the mountains, especially Everest, the highest mountain, has been seeing hundreds of climbers aiming to stand atop the highest point on earth. There are those who go for trekking, there are those who go for climbing. But not everyone manages to take a time out to go on a long distance trek to, say, Everest. But because ‘they are there’, you may also love to see the magnificent peaks once.

If you are really looking forward to that you are lucky. Even if you are in a hurry and don’t have enough time, you can make it within an hour, thanks largely to Nepal’s budding—and booming—aviation sector. Today you don’t need to trek for over three weeks via Banepa-Charikot trial (like many in olden time did) to have Everest next to you. In addition to the state-owned Royal Nepal Airlines Corporation (RNAC), which flew first Mountain Flight way back in 1968, there are five other private airlines—Buddha Air, Cosmic Air, Gorkha Airlines, Mountain Air and Necon Air. Every morning as the Sun rises they take you on an air trek to Mt Everest, where on the way you will come across many.

While the rate for third country travellers—most of whom come from prosperous economies—is slightly higher, the airfare for Mountain Flights for Nepalis is cheaper (but you may need to ask for discounts for that). (Add to it the helicopters that most of the country’s 19 operational registered private airlines own. You can charter them at your choice.)

Immediately after your aircraft becomes airborne from Kathmandu Airport early in the morning, the snow-capped peaks glistening at the day’s first rays of sun start staring at you at your airplane window. From Langtang Lerung to Sissha Pangma or Gasaithan peaks to Dorje-Lakpa to Gauri Shankar, and from Melungtse to Chugimago to Karyolung to Pumori to Nuptse to Sagarmatha (Everest) to Kanchenjunga you can see them all. You can have a birds eye view—if not make eye-to-eye contact like the one you make you with your beloved ones—of these mountains.

Spokesman of RNAC, the national flag carrier credited for introducing Mountain Flights in the country, Mohan Khanal, says, RNAC currently has only one flight (a day) to the mountains. The national flag carrier had been flying one of its Avros to the mountains, "but that too has been stopped for the last few days. The aircraft has been grounded to carry out necessary maintenance works". He concedes that RNAC currently does not have enough aircraft to fly Mountain Flights. And its Twin Otters, which are not really ideal for Mountain Flights, are busy flying passengers to country’s remote destinations where air transport is the only means of transportation, thanks to the inaccessibility.

Of the five private airlines that are making bulks out of Mountain Flights which are said to be very popular during the season (September to April), Buddha Air appears to be topping all the rest. Operational since 1997 October, Buddha Air has four sophisticatedly equipped aircraft—U.S made Beech 1900-D, with such ultra-modern equipment as GPS (Global Positioning System), EFIS (Electronic Flight Instrument System) and so on.

And needlessly to say, two-third of its annual revenue comes from tourist sector—Mountain and Pokhara flights, according to Birendra Bahadur Basnet, Managing Director of Buddha Air. Basnet proudly says that his aircraft have had 15 mountain flights during the second week of November last year. "Ours are the only aircraft that can go upto the height of 25,000 ft, above the monsoon clouds," he says. "At the same fare as any other airlines we will whisk you through all the spectacular glaciers, snow-capped peaks and gorges below"

Cosmic Air and Gorakha Airlines, with two small airplanes each, are the other names in the world of Mountain Flights. In addition to two MI-17 helicopters, Gorakha Airlines has two German made Dorniers which it claims are the most advanced and safest aircraft in its fleet. "We guarantee you a discerning service of the highest order," says the Airlines’ Public Relation Officer Thakur Lamichhane, shedding light on his airlines’ services. "With guaranteed window seats, we concentrate on making your flying experience a memorable one."

And there is Mountain Air, the newest airlines with all-blue painted two 1900-C aircraft. In a sky full of white coloured aircraft, Mountain Air’s blue aircraft appear to be different—and, of course decent thanks to the sketch of Mountain summits that its planes have all over. Operational since this April 10, the airlines has five scheduled mountain flights for a day.

Last but not the least. There’s Necon Air, probably the oldest if not trusted of all the private airlines that are operating. While the airlines is eyeing for more international sector services (it is Nepal’s first private airlines to fly international sector), it is also emphasizing on what airlines people here describe as the "tourist sector"—Mountain and Pokhara flights.

"This tourist sector generated 50 percent of our annual revenue earning last year," says Necon’s Marketing Officer N Salike. "Mountain and Pokhara flights are the most lucrative ones." Necon, which currently has three Avros and one ATR aircraft, normally flies four aircraft to the mountains.

The more the number of tourists visiting Nepal; the higher these airlines’ chances of earning money tends to be. And Mountain Flight, besides being the major foreign currency spinner, is an attractive feature of Nepal’s civil aviation sector. Indeed, Mountain Flights, are the shortest and surest way to silver shining mountains.

In memory of Gopal Yonzon
A lively evening of patriotic songs

By Sarad Pradhan

The last two week seemed to have been exclusively devoted to Gopal Yonzon. Though it was not publicised with a lot of media-hype, it has been successful in making a positive impact in the minds of genuine Nepalis. Once again people have started thinking about Nepal.

For many, Gopal Yonzon was a great patriotic singer, versatile musician and gifted lyricist. For me, above all these, he was a true human being, always making us think of the those neglected by society through his heart-touching songs.

A musical programme organised in memory of late Gopal Yonzon on April 21 and 27 labelled as "Rastriyata ko Lagi" not only mesmerised the audience but also inoculated the feeling of patriotism in their minds.

Starting with "Deshlay Ragat Magay", the hit number of Gopal Yonzon, aptly rendered by famous singer Deep Shrestha, the theme musical programme presented many young and talented singers. They reminded many a Nepali of their lost glory which spread from Tista river in the east to Kangra in the west. All singers belaboured to resemble the voice of Gopal Yonzon and tried to communicate the message that Gopal Yonzon so much wanted the people to understand when he was alive.

Gopal Yonzon’s journey of patriotic songs began right from his Darjeeling’s days. Once he told me in an interview that he penned his best number "Deshlay Ragat Magay" when he was still in Darjeeling as he wanted Nepalese living in Nepal to understand who they are and what they should do for Nepal.

Whether it’s Uday Sotang’s "Banay cha Paharalay" or "Yo mero Topi ho" of Yam Baral and Rajesh Payal Rai, all songs had a certain message to convey . Prakash Shrestha’s Nepali "Nepal ko Maya Chaki Chaina" has a call for all Nepalis whether they love Nepal or not. In the meantime, Manila Sotang’s and Rima Gurung’s "Pachim Kohi Purba Ghar" tells the story of unity in diversity, something which does exist in Nepal. Another song Hamro Kushi ko Lagi sung by Manila and Rima tells us what should we do for our happiness. Rajesh Payal Rai’s "Bhanay day Nepali dai" narrates the story of the Nepalis conquest and questions the whereabouts of all Nepalis between the border that extended to Kangra and the river where Nepali soldiers washed their kukuri after the victory over Sikkim. Carorau birlay dhakayka Sapana rendered by Sukmit Gurung and Uday Sotang reminds us of the dream seen by the millions of Nepali after the restoration of democracy. Haina Bhanay Nepali nabana by Yam Baral and friends explains the criteria to be a good Nepali whereas Prakash Shrestha’s Ma Rastrako Bir tells the role of a Nepali citizen.

The shadow dance in the song of Gopal Yonzon in the background visualised by Srijana Singh Yonzon, the only daughter of late Yonzon and choreographed by Birendra Hamal, appeared to have captured the feeling of Gopal Yonzon’s songs. They were very relevant to our country which is hit by chaos and political unrest. Prakash Sayami , a competent film director and master of ceremony, and who also runs "Ajambari Bhaka" , a programme exclusively devoted to Nepalese golden oldie music and songs in Sagarmatha FM, spoke highly about Gopal Yonzon’s contribution to Nepali music. The programme was visualised by Rinchen Yonzon, wife of late Yonzon and was coordinated by Srijana Singh Yonzon who appealed all Nepalis to love Nepal.

Gopal Yonzon who started his musical career back in the sixties in Darjeeling was honoured by being given the opportunity to play the flute as a background music in the film "Kanchanjanga". The film earned its distinction when the winner of the Oscar Lifetime Achievement Award went to Satyajit Ray in sixties when he was barely a teenager. He also played the flute for the Hinidi fil, "Professor" (starred by Sammi Kapoor and Kalpana) in its first song. Gopal Yonzon could be seen playing the flute himself . He was also one of the judges of the Gold Kite Music Festival held at Malaysia.

Although Gopal Yonzon died in New Delhi on May 20, 1997, his songs will always remind us of his patriotic and pure soul and will keep him alive in our hearts forever.

Udaipur The Venice of the east

A place that leaves all of its visitors awed with the diversity its coulourful people and imposing Palaces is Rajasthan.

Rajasthan draws people from every country nestled in the six major landmasses on this planet. No heart or mind which comes here ever goes un- etched with impressions of a bygone glory. Such is the power of Rajasthan, the incomparable.

Among its various cities that are an oasis of impeccable beauty and heritage is Udaipur. Noted for its beauriful man-made lakes, it is, for the lack of better comparison, labeled The Venice of East.

Udaipur was set up by Rana Uday Singh. Whose, history has it, as a child was rescued to safety by a chambermaid when a murderous assault loomed large over him.

It was a shift from Chittorgarh as the capital of the kingdom of Mewar that led to the foundation of Udaipur in 1559. It has withstood the ravages — cultural and geographical , both — that followed the invasion of the subcontinent by various dynasties over the centuries. And preserved a tradition and hertage that is it own.

If what an Australian lady who is on her fourth visit here is to be believed, sitting by the serene lakes, you can almost hear time narrate Udaipur’s gallant past to you!

Though Udaipur is charaterized by innumerable Palaces, Havelis (castles) and Lakes, all out doing each other in some way or the other, a gem of architectural wonder is the Maharana Palace, popularly known as the City Palace. Situated on the ladeshore of Pichola lake, it towers over the lake as it is constructed atop a 100 ft high hillock.

The main attractions of this Palace, besides its beauty and the importace it holds in the lives of the people there, are the royal art gallery, Mati Mahal, Manak Mahal and Badi Mahal.

Moti Mahal is resplendent with brilliance as it has mosaic of Begian glass on its doors and windows. This Place, like most other Places, has one of its wings converted into a museum. This museum houses the weaponry of the erstwhile Maharajas which assisted them in lengthening their vicory lists, and ballooning their pride. Rana Udai Singh’s arms provide a spectacle to every visitor.

Another awesome Palace, which through a constant use in the travel brochures has become the trade mark of Udaipur, is the Jagniwas Plalace— Lake Palace. It is located in the centre of Pichola lake. Housing and entertaining wealthy visitors to the city as it has now been converted into a five star luxury hotel.

Udaipur is also noted for having the highest number of, and some of the most beautiful man-made lakes.

Fatehsagar has a beautiful garden at its centre. Just on its banks, on a small hillock called Moti Magri, is the memorial of the legendry Maharana Pratap.

Fifty kms from Fatehsagar is Jayasmand lake. Fourteen kms long and Nine and a half kms wide, it’s an amazing feat of achievement by man. Little wonder, it is Asia’s second largest man-made lake.

That said, however, rarely can any lake rival the beauty of Rajsamand lake. Sixty five kms from Udaipur, it is arguably the most beautiful lake in Rajasthan. It is surrounded by a chain of mountains. Words appear hopelessly inadequate to describe the sight.

Of course, other than the big lakes described above, there are also numerous small lakes. Equally farmed for beauty, though not size, these lakes are somewhat squarish in appearance. They have small unbrellas of black marble at their corners. It is believed that these small lakes were created by Maharana Sangram Singh, The Second, for his daughters to bathe in.

But mind you, Udaipur isn’t about lakes alone. It also has some of the most beautiful temples.

The biggest temple in the whole of Udiapur is Jagdish Temple. It is created in the lines of Kahajurao temples, though the imitation is inferior.

On the other hand is the temple of Eklingji. This temple unique as it envelopes over hundred small temples within its main compound.

Twenty seven kms from Eklingji’s temple, on the Ajmer-Udiapur highway, is a place called Nathdwara — The God’s Door. This place, it is believed, drew its name from The God Shri Nath Ji, to whom the temple, only after Tirupari Balaji in Andhra Pradesh. The statue instituted here was earlier at Gavardhan, which was bought here to save it from getting destrayed in the anticipated attack of emperor Aurangzeb in 1669.

A talk on Udaipur would never be complete without a mention to its legends. The legend of Maharana Pratap was written in a place called Haldi Ghati. Fourty Five kms from Udiapur, this is the place where the legend himself- Maharana Pratap- resisted the advancing army of the great Mughal Emperor Akbar The Great in 1576. This place has a tombstone on the spot where Chetak — Maharana’s white horse- died in battle.

But that is just one of the legends that every child in Udaipur learns about as he grows. How much do you know as a grown up?

To find out is one pleasure of coming to Udaipur. You can reach here by bus, train or plave. It has hotels ranging from budget to luxury hotels. And the best time to come here is between October and February.

Plan your holiday around Udaipur next time. Or if you have already plannes your holiday elsewhere, try and squeeze in a visit to Udaipur in your schedule.

One thing about coming to Udaipur is you never run short of things to see, do, try and experience. And yes satisfaction is always guarranteed in this Venice of East. If the same can be said of the Venice of West... well, we leave that to you to judge.

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