Sukunda, Khaadaloo
Two ancient oil lamps of Nepal

By Dhurba K Deep

Sukunda is a typically traditional Nepali oil lamp made of brass. The front part of this lamp shows a tiny icon of Ganesha, the good luck and success. In its front is a tiny cup of fixed in the shape of Yoni to put the wick in it. Fixed on the back of the lamp is a fascinating loop handle designed with a five headed serpent (sometimes a mythical dragon or makara) raising head in a very watchful attitude. A small spoon with a nagakanya a top- is generally used for replenishing the oil from the reservoir.

The artistic work on this unique oil lamp reflects the remote past of a very famous Buddhist legend. Here it goes:

The Legend

Long time ago Kathmandu valley was a large lake in-habited by nagas(snakes). In the middle of the lake was a beautifully blooming thousand petalled lotus flame. When Buddhisattwa Mahamanjushree heard all about this, he rushed to the valley all the way from China to pay homage to the flame. The entire valley rang up with the thundering strike of his magic sword on the southern hill of the lake, which drained the entire lake water leaving the valley floor open to all. The most famous Buddhist stupa of Nepal locally known as Swayambhubatha is believed to have originated from the same legendary lotus flame.

It is quite interesting to note that the word Sukunda, means a beautiful lake in Newari language. The Sukunda story in many ways sounds like an artistic fact in fiction. It is said that the oil reservoir of Sukunda represents the legendary lake and its wide open mouth represents the full-blown thousand petalled lotus and the cup attached to it in which the lamp is lighted the self existent divine lotus flame. The snake hood over the Sukunda and the snake spoon half dipped in its oil reservoir symbolize the nagas(snakes), original inhabitants of the legendary lake. The Yoni lamp cup symbolizes Swayambhu Jyotir-linga meaning the self-existent divine light. The lamp lighted in this yoni-cup symbolizes the great union of Shiva(Swayambhu) and Shakti and Lord Ganesh in front represents great guru who is there to teach one and all about the supreme acts of God and his changeless inner nature. This is one of the reasons why Lord Ganesha is entitled to receive the first worship by his devotees before they begin any ceremony. It is quite interesting to note that no socio-religious ceremony in Nepal, big or small, ever starts until Sukunda is lighted and set up at the ceremonial spot.

Khaadalu

Khaadalu, this traditional Nepalese oil lamp, a little different from Sukunda in size and shape, is derived from a Newari name which generally means a hanging window lamp. Centuries ago, when the electricity was unheard of this significantly simple and serene oil lamp was used for lighting shrines and the streets of Kathmandu. Many in Nepal use the cotton wick to make this lamp.

Nevertheless one can still see this oriental brass chandelier hanging from many old styled Nepali houses though now it is lighted only on festive occasions. This oriental oil lamp has a couple of mythical dragons watchfully guarding its flame from both ends of the loop handle atop forming a sort of miniature arch above the lamp trey.

This shadeless open air lamp is usually made of brass. Though, very much like Sukunda, it is basically designed after the full-blown lotus which is widely used in this country to this say.

The surface of this circular brass lamp has in its middle a small sink which is filled up with mustard oil. Elderly people call it an evening lamp. This lamp is supposed to be lit as soon as it gets dark.

As the age-old custom would have it, only housewives should light this lamp. Many still believe that those who do not bother to do this even after it gets dark, Laxmi, the goddess of wealth, would never be pleases with them. There is a very old prayer line which is recited while performing the evening lamp ritual.Shubham Bhavatu Kalyanam Aarogya Dhanasampati mamashatru vinashaya deepajyoti namastutey. You, the great doer of welfare for your devotees, bestower of health, happiness and wealth and the destroyer of enemies(darkness and ignorance) saluation to you, the great divine light.

Heritage tour 
Swayambhu hill monument zone

By Razen Manandhar

The holy hill of Swayambhu at the north east of Kathmandu City is considered to be older than the valley itself. The origin of the heterogeneous collection of art and architecture, that kept on developing on its own for at least 1500 years, is associated with legends of origin of the Valley. Legends aside, it is a piece of legacy for the whole country and one among the best of the Stupa architectures of the world.

Buddhist hand-written books has adored it with different names like Goshringha, Gopuchha, Bjarakut, Padmagiri and it is popularly known among the Newar community as the Shyegu hill.

The 50 square-metre-big Swayambhu stupa (with idols of Akshobhya Buddha, Vairochan Buddha, Mmaki Tara, Ratnasambhava Buddha, Padmapani Tara, Amitabha Buddha, Arya Tara, Amoghsiddi Buiddha and Sapta Lochani Tara) is the principal monument in the zone. The golden Bajra, Anantapur, Basupura, Bayupura, Harati or Ajima Temple, Buddhism Museum, Gyanmala Sattal, Devdharma Monastery, Karmaraja Monastery, Mangal Bahudwara Chaitya, Nagpura, Pratappura, cluster of Chaityas, Standing Buddha, Agnipura, Abalokiteshwor, Shantipur are other monuments on the top of the hill. And there is Mahamanjusri Temple, Old Swayambhu Stupa etc surround the main temple hill.

The Buddhists believe, thousands of years ago, when the whole valley was a lake, a legendary scholar Mahamanjushi came from China, send the water out a gorge in Chovar and developed the valley as a centre of civilization. According to religious books, the credit of creating Swayambhu goes to the Buddhas who were born thousands of years earlier than Sakyamuni Buddha was born in Lumbini. Bipashwi Buddha planted a lotus on which a "thousand-petalled" lotus emerged.. It later developed five colours, which then turned into five Dhyani Buddhas. Other Buddhas like Shikhi, Bishombhu, Krakuchhanda also visited the hill and paid homage to it. A King Prachanda Dev is said to be the first constructor of the stupa of Swayambhu and other major monuments around it.

According to the Gopalraj Banshavali, the oldest ever found chronicle, it was Brishdev, who constructed the stupa of Swayambhu for the first time. The oldest inscription found there is of King Mandev, the Licchibi king of 5th century AD. All we can say is that the hill and the stupa became a place pilgrimage, Buddhist learning centre and a altar of Buddhist creed, mainly of Mahayana sect as early as 11th century.

In the course of time, the stupa of Swayambhu had to undergo numerous incidents that destroyed and distorted its original beauty. Some, who renovated the main stupa or added new monuments in the vicinity included, King Shiv Singh Malla, King Pratap Malla, King Parthivendra, King Bhashkar Malla and others. Later, King Ranabhadur Shah, King Girban Yuddha Bikram Shah and King Rajendra Bikram Shah also continued the glorious tradition of the Malla kings. Even Ananta Jiv Bharo, Abhay Singh Bharo and others, from the public contributed for renovation of the stupa. The traditional artists and their skill did amazing task to keep the sucha a huge pile of mud and brick intact for hundreds of years on a top of a hill which has its forest thinning year by year. The tradition, still alive, either beautify the monument or blemish the ancient monument.

The birthday of Lord Buddha is the main festival of Swayambhu. And, the Gunla (August-Septempber) is the month-long festival when thousands of pilgrims attend the stupa and scores of musical troupes play special drum called dhaa. Once in a 12 years, an exceptional Samyak-mahapuja takes place which is graced by His Majesty King also.

But, it is disappointing that the original shape and architecture of Swayambhu is being lost mainly in last several years. After being enlisted in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, a Swayambhunath Conservation Masterplan (Swayambhu 2000) was recognised by the government in 1989 that was supposed to be complete by the year 2002. The masterplan suggested the government to demolish dozens of eyesore structures and to restrict any new construction.

However, the government has not demolished a single building. Instead, new concrete buildings, Mane-gumbas ae being constructed along with serious encroachment of public land. Similarly, the whole hill is being covered by piles of garbage. Only one of two traditional building recently got facelift in last several years.

The holy hill is not in need of money for renovation. A German project that provided assistance for renovation of Swayambhu stopped giving money because it is has enough to self dependant. As other monuments, Swayambhu also charged entrance fee from the visitors but it still lacks fasilities. A ridiculuous fight took place between the federation of "religious" bodies and the municipality when the latter tried to manage the money collected from entrance fee.

This is going to affect the whole valley in near future. The reputation the valley gained after being recognised as a World Heritage Site will be lost if UNESCO delists it in the coming general convention in 2002.

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