murchunga: vanishing

By Perina Pathak

When Madan Basnet plays his Murchunga, the people listening to the soothing sound of the instrument turn nostalgic. It takes you back to an age when this typical Nepali instrument used to be very popular. This traditional musical instrument, also known as Jews Harp, is rarely used these days and could become extinct soon.

It sounds like crickets (Jhyaukiri), a type of forest insect. Basnet, 42, is probably the only musician in the present Nepali music industry, who is still playing Murchunga in concerts. He started playing this instrument from as early as 12 years. But Basnet is frustrated. "I don’t play regularly these days," he says. "There is no guarantee of getting any work."

We rarely find Murchanga players these days. Madan Basnet is considered to be the only Murchunga player in Kathmandu, though there are some others outside the valley.

According to Basnet, the particular musical instrument will not get priority unless music directors demand for it. "Here, in our context, foreign musical instruments are getting more priority than our traditional instruments," he said.

Murchunga is popular in folk music throughout the world. It is played by holding the frame of the instrument between the teeth. Then the player plucks its tongue with his fingers. The player’s mouth and lips helps to vibrate the tongue and increase the sound. Whereas cheeks and teeth determines the pitch of the note produced.

The flexible tongue of the Murchunga is free at one end, which is cut out of the frame that allows it to be plucked with a cord. It is made up of bamboo or metal that produces a quiet and appealing sound. The Jews Harp’s size varies from a couple of inches to over one foot.

"Long ago, especially highland women and Kirati people used to play the Binayo, which was later developed in to Murchunga," says Ram Sharan Darnal, researcher of traditional musical instruments. Binayo (made of bamboo), which the women in the villages used to play while cutting wood and grass, is now limited only to the showcases of museums. "Long ago, iron was used to make Murchunga but now according to time steels are used," adds Darnal.

Though the Binayo is the base instrument of the Murchunga, it is rarely used these days. And the pure folk instrument Murchunga, though popular throughout the world, is rarely used in modern music.

"The old and mostly used Murchunga came to the Kathmandu Valley about half a century ago as a folk instrument and was limited only among the folk musicians", tells Darnal. Though, some musicians make use of its melody in modern music, it is, still, rarely in use.

"Musicians and students are found to be more inclined towards modern instruments which are attractive in look and comfortable," says Shubi Shaha, a culturalist. This makes them indifferent to traditional instruments such as the Murchunga, the reason it is losing its priority, he adds.

The maker and the player of the Murchunga gets nothing in return as it is rarely used, which forces them to abandon their work. Murchungas, years ago were made of iron and only by blacksmiths. Nowadays Murchungas are made of steel and wood, losing its real identity.

"Instead of pure Nepali Murchungas, Indian varieties are used in large numbers, in different sizes made of steel that too produce a different sound, whereas the pure Nepali variety is small in size and made of iron," says Shaha.

"Nepali folk music is rarely composed through notation, the main reason for the disappearance of folk instruments and songs," says Darnal. In some foreign countries, folk music is composed through notation like in Israel, which helps to preserve it.

As a whole there is the need for a National Orchestra for folk instruments, says Darnal. The Murchunga, which still exists in Nepal, should be given priority for preservation.

Darnal’s book, ‘Nepali Baja (Nepali Musical Instruments)’, which includes full descriptions of more than a hundred instruments including the Murchunga, is still waiting for publication.

kung fu food at the arniko

Spost

Maybe somewhere in the world there's a dish called Hong Kong Fooey. But not at the Arniko. Maybe you can find it in the last Chinese restaurant at the end of the world. Where Bruce Lee is still alive and shows you the art of Kung Fu eating, those chop sticks moving as fast as lightening.

But if you’re looking for some fine food, then ‘The autumn moon festival’ at the Arniko Room at Hotel Annapurna, is in full swing, attracting people with its cuisine specially prepared by the chefs for this occasion. The menu has the old favourites as well as dishes specially prepared for the festival.

Stretching back 1000 years, this widely held Chinese festival celebrates family union and get togethers. There is a custom of eating moon cakes and watching the full moon, the Moon Goddess Chang O which has a legend of its own. It generally falls on the 15th day of the 8th month according to the Chinese calendar.

Now the festival is not only limited to Chinese culture, since Chinese food, in its various forms, is available across the globe. A truly global food. With its specially prepared decor of card board pagodas on the wall made locally and beautiful Chinese lanterns flown all the way from Hong Kong, the atmosphere in the restaurant matches the festive mood. That's not all, 4 dancers, apparently studying in a school in Bouddha, also perform dances in their traditional outfits (bakkhu) to enthrall culture lovers.

Coming to the food, the menu, made in the style of a lantern, brings you both the regular dishes and the ones prepared for the festival (marked). For starters you can go for Prawns pepper salt for Rs 650, Spicy cold chicken at Rs 250. For soups, the tongue tangy Spicy prawn and lemon soup (Rs200) would be a good choice as would the Sharkfin soup with crab meat or chicken (Rs 200).

On the main courses, to add a vegetarian touch, then the Vegetable Manchurian or the Mix vegetable Sichuan home style (both at Rs 225) are reliable if you’re looking for something spicy. If not then Stir fried vegetables or the Stir fried Chinese greens (Rs 225) are good choices.

Prawn dishes (a speciality of the Chef) are all succulent and juicy. King prawns in Singtue sauce (Rs 600) cooked with cucumbers, black mushrooms in a spicy chilli garlic sauce flavoured with wine and lemon juice is quite heavenly. Others to go for are the Shredded duck in peanut sauce (Rs 375), the Crispy fried duck Cantonese style (Rs 425) or the Spicy honey chicken (Rs 375) or the Chicken Hong Kong with cashewnut (Rs 375).

parting words

By Hom Prasad Sharma Dhakal

I hope some of you had pleasurable holidays. Some of you maybe on holiday now or some of you will soon take a holiday. Anyway, and in every situation, I wish you all pleasurable the memorable holidays this year.

I wrote last year, on the day of my birthday. And this year, I just undated some new words and thoughts. It is my pleasure to forward this to each of you so that you can correct me as always, especially if I am on the wrong track. And another thing, may it be useful to you in one way or another... That, I am sure, you will find out for yourself. I but only ask that you read this once and let me know your feedback, that is if you want to of course.

Friends, rise to the challenges and face the problems. You can rise to the challenges and face the problems or you can let them bring you down.

You can make the best of them, or you can let them get the best of you. You are the president of your own life. You are the prime minister of your own life. It all depends and starts on how you respond. It all depends on how you see yourself. Your mind, your thoughts and your ideas will make you rich or poor depending on the way you use them. The way you put them to use. The choice, as always, is yours. Anywhere, anytime and with anything.

If your see yourself as a victim, you will be one. There will be no way out. You will be trapped, left with nothing more than your naked body.

Life’s difficulties will quickly overpower you if you let them catch you. So, try to catch the problems before they catch you. Playing with fire will only be fun until you are burnt by it.

When you see yourself as an active player, an active participant in life, as an effective and positively focused force, and when you have strong passions, burning desires and drive for the things you want to achieve, believe me nothing will stop you. Nothing. Nothing at all.

Every single day tells us that success is a lousy teacher. That success is a long journey. Try hard to use every single minute of your time because sooner or later you will find out yourself time management is life management. Challenges, problems, what can you learn from them? What can you do with them? How can you bring about something positive because of them? When you are being faced with a challenge, ask yourself a question. And think constructively, positively and ask for help. The Bible says also do not forget to ask.

How can I respond to this challenge, so that a year from now, looking back at the experience, I’ll be overwhelmingly thankful that it came along?

The challenges and problems are there always and they will keep on coming one after another, so much so that they may seem never ending.

Rise to the challenges. Face the problems, do not run from the problems and challenges, involve yourself continuously, constructively, for that is the road out to the bright tomorrow.

It’s a great way to powerfully lift yourself up to the summer-sun-shine. You can create this beautiful summer morning by yourself. You can be the summer-sun-shine for yourself!

That is all that I wanted to pass onto you today, and thank you all.

Chefs Corner

By Razen Manandhar

"Mom, I’m going to see my friend."
"Now? It’s too late, dear. Say tomorrow morning."
"But my brother comes home late every night..."
"Because he is a son."

An excerpt of a daily conversation that can be heard at every nook and corner of this rambunctious capital city.

Walking the streets is unsafe in the evenings — this preaching goes to girls only. It’s true that the city streets are generally considered unsafe for girls. But that is not the total truth.

On the one hand, the streets are often the hangouts of the ubiquitous street-side Romeos, teasing and harassing the girls.

Girls go through the bitter experiences they face almost everyday when they travel by city buses, go to the cinema, to temples and many other places. They can neither tolerate the prickly behaviour of the largely uncontrollable boys nor can they retaliate against such rude unsociable behaviour. Such boys can even turn into devils in the late evenings when the streets become dark.

This has turned into an excuse for parents who do not permit their daughters to go outside after dusk. It is for their "protection". In some cases, the solutions are out of their hands, they are simply helpless. But in truth, they want to keep their daughters safe by imprisoning them in their homes.

On the other hand, this urban has taken root so deeply in some parents that they do not want to send their daughters out at all, even to secure places. Ridiculously, they send an 8 year old boy to escort and safeguard a 20 year old daughter.

In either case, it’s the girls who suffer. Due to both reasons, the girls get less chance to go out. That means they find it hard to develop self-confidence and explore their creativity or the ways in which to keep themselves up-to-date with the world. This has become a capital habit. Only a few girls from a population of over a million get frequent chances to feel the night breeze, restaurants and discotheques.

However, girls from the towns, at least some of them, are relatively bold in this matter. Rather than being obedient daughters and giving up the fight against trouble makers, they have raised their voices and gained a measure of success too.

One among them is Byas Municipality of Damauli, about 150 kms west of the capital. Their venture to bring the waggish men of the small town into line might set an example for all other cities.

These groups of 120 students, representing six local schools, have taken stock of things. They have set up a children’s network from each school with 20 students, both boys and girls from the sixth to the eighth grade. They first make their clubs strong individually with regular interactions and then choose their representatives to create the network from all six schools.

Jivani Nagila, a class eight student says she has made it her mission to "teach the directionless youths a lesson" with the help of her friends.

"When we sat for the first meeting we did not see its importance because we have been almost used to such harassment. But we gained courage as soon as we found some supporting hands around us," Nagila said.

Kashi Gurung, the co-ordinator of the "Safe Environment for Girls" project said Byas was infamous for such harassment incidents and there were even several rape cases in the nearby jungles. She co-ordinated the children with representation from all prevalent castes who came to her with the permission from the concerned parents to take part in the "undeclared war".

"We stated this programme June last year. But organising the children was quite difficult. So we spent almost nine months just setting up the clubs, the network and launching preliminary works like identifying the unsafe areas," she said.

Anil Raghubanshi, the national co-ordinator for Say Yes for Children campaign from Save the Children United Kingdom (SCUK) said the local level campaign will be expanded into different towns and ultimately be made into a national agenda. SCUK is funding the programme at Damauli and other several towns in the country.

"We pay little attention to what deep scars such tiny harassment to girls make in their lives in long run. Such incidents may affect them psychologically and create a kind of unclear hatred for the whole male sex. That can also hinder their personality development in the future," he said.

god's cable car

By Satyendra Timilsina

Manakamana, the Goddess of Wishes, situated on one of the hilltops of Gorkha, attracts thousands of devotees every year. The number of visitors to the temple has increased tremendously after the opening of the sophisticated and comfortable cable car. Since the start of its operations on December 1998, most of the pilgrims to the temple opt for the swift and comfortable ride rather than the exhausting three-hour steep trek. Though the cable car has significantly increased the number of visitors to Manakamana temple, other delightful tourist attractions near and around the temple still remain untapped.

The village has been unable to exploit its abundant natural beauty. No one apart from the locals know that the village has superb sunrises and sunsets. Almost everyone has heard about the sunrise views at Nagarkot and the Sri-antu hills in Illam, but very few know that the views from Lakhan Thapa’s cave at Manakamana are dazzling. This cave stands at a height of little more than 6,000 feet, 2,000 feet above the Manakamana temple, an hour and a half’s walk away from the temple.

The area is not only famous for its sunrise and the sunset views, but also boasts of incredible views of the Himalayas. The famous peaks of Mt Makalu, Mt Machhapuchre, Mt Annapurna, Mt Ganesh and Mt Gaurishanker can be seen from this point. The Gorkha Darbar, King Prithivi Narayan Shah’s palace which is itself on another hilltop, looks as if it is nearby the cave. The locals claim that some of the points of the capital city can also be seen from the hilltop.

Apart from its tourism aspect, it has religious importance too. Lakhan Thapa’s cave is famous among the locals because Lakhan Thapa was the ancestor of the present Manakamana temple priests. Iman Singh Thapa, the present priest at the temple, belongs to the 16th generation of Lakhan Thapa’s line. Though no one so far has gone inside the cave, it is said that it has a link with Gorakhnath’s temple at Gorkha. The villagers have a proverb that Lakhan Thapa and Gorakhnath used to share food inside the cave.

As in the villagers word, Lakhan Tahapa was a susare (Helper) of King Ram Shah and his Queen. After the death of King Ram Shah followed by his Queen, the Manakamana temple was established and he took charge looking after it. The villagers say Lakhan Thapa lost himself inside the cave, after he heard his self-obituary and knew that his family carried out his rites before his death, when he had left for the pilgrimage to Banaras.

On the way to this viewpoint, there is one other holy place of pilgrimage. The temple that rests on the way is known as the Bakeshwor Mahadev. It is Lord Shiva’s temple which grants voice to voiceless people. Parents with dumb children often visit this temple and pray that their child regains speech. Bakeshwor Mahadev is an open temple with two stone pillars, under the tree shade that represents Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati. The Ganesh temple has also been constructed nearer to Bakeshwor’s temple. In one of the master plans that aimed to develop Manakamana area as a tourist destination, necessary infrastructure development at the Bakeshwor’s temple is also included. Thus both these areas can be developed as a holy site along with the more secular attractions.

With its development as a tourist area, visitors would enjoy a new place and spend more time there. The increase in visitors would also have a positive effect on the village. One night tourist-halts would mean more spending, which in turn would benefit the locals.

The village has to take the initiative to raise publicity for its area’s natural diversity and build the infrastructures to attract more tourists. But so far, it has not been able to do so. After the opening of the cable car, that links the highway to the Manakamana hills in a mere 10 minutes, only specific markets have been expanded whereas the traditional hotel and lodge businesses received contracts. The cable car has decreased the total turnover of the village because of the declining business in the area that heavily relied on the income through the lodges and hotels that lined the uphill to the temple complex.

No one can challenge the dynamics of change. You have to adjust with the changing environment. It is time that the overall tourism of the area was developed more widely to bring back lost business and jobs.

Despite this, the cable car’s management has been providing its financial assistance for the development projects at the Manakamana Village Development Committee. They are taking the villagers up to the hills and down to the highway at a discounted rate of Rs 50. The cable car has made their lives somewhat easier than what it was three years ago.

The completion of three roads currently under construction would be of immense help for the infrastructure development of the village. Though the cable car is operating, mules are the only means of transportation as the cable cars ferry only light household goods. Out of the three different roads under construction, the shortest one is a 13 km road that joins midway, between the Abu Khairini and Gorkha to Manakamana. One fourth of this road is already constructed with the joint effort of the villagers and the cable car management and the remaining part is also expected to be completed within a few years. With this road link to Manakamana, the villagers are, inevitably, hoping for a better future and a rise in their living standards too.

Sweet days in Japan

Writes Guna Raj Luintel

My first encounter with the Toko family was the moment I met my hosts at Kyoto. When the escort of our programme, Tadao Maekawa called out the host family I was assigned to, I waved my hands in response.

The lady smiled as I approached her. She told me something in Japanese, but I couldn’t understand her. I, however, greeted her back in English and expressed my happiness to meet her

"Do you speak Japanese?" she asked me. I shook my head and asked her whether she could speak English instead. She shook hers too.

After a while she again spoke gently and slowly in the typical Japanese style, famous around the world.

"We will manage anyway," I assured her adding that even if we couldn’t communicate with each other through a common language we could at least do so through body language. She again smiled. When she was laughing I could see her gold teeth. Here language was not important, but the gestures were enough.

She took me to a railway station. I followed her like an obedient child. I could see that this was a really difficult task for her. She did not know me. Even I was thinking what type of people were they? Both of us were nervous.

Her neighbour and friend, Kitano Sachiko, brought a railway ticket for all of us. Than we entered the first train that pulled into the station. The train was impressive and similar, like an airplane. Some commuters were sleeping while others were reading newspapers, some were whispering to each other but none were making loud sounds. I felt that I had finally arrived in a civilized world.

I went upto my host, Mrs. Masumi Toko, and asked her about her profession. She replied in Japanese but I couldn’t understand her. Then she looked in her handbag for something. A Japanese-English dictionary. She pointed at a word that said "Priest".

Two hours later we reached the station. Near the station there was a well-maintained car park. Mrs. Toko picked up her car and we started to drive to her home.

So why did the escorts choose to send me to the Toko family for my stay in Japan? In Kathmandu, the embassy of Japan asked me to fill out a questionnaire asking if I would mind if the host family had pets? At that time I had said "No". The Toko family seemed the perfect choice. Their three dogs and two cats were there to welcome me.

The dogs never barked during my entire stay. The white cat, Flower, came to me and was playful. The cat belonged to the family’s second daughter, Masami.

When we reached the Toko residence nobody was there except the pets. Mr. Toko was away at work. His two daughters and son were busy with their respective jobs. Though a village in comparison with Tokyo, the people of this small hamlet— Seika Town—appeared prosperous and happy. Everyone in the family owned their own car, mobiles and other essential goods.

I found Seika Town unique. It had every thing. It had a railway station, well-paved roads, uninterrupted electricity, a post office, a local government office, an agricultural produce market, a Shrine etc.

They had their own community-run magazine. But life appeared as hectic as in the bustling metropolis of Tokyo.

I exchanged gifts with Mrs.Toko and waited eagerly for Mr.Toko the first night I was their guest. We had dinner, which was delicious. It was already 9 PM. Then she wanted to take me to Kitano’s house for the famous Japanese Tea Ceremony.

Mrs. Kitano explained this unique and world famous "tea ceremony" to me. They have been practising this culture imitating the Chinese for aeons. It is believed that green tea is helpful for the throat. After the ceremony we went back to the Toko’s residence. Even then there were only pets to greet us. She offered me some drinks. Finally late at night, her second daughter came home. Mrs.Toko introduced me to her. The daughter’s mobile rang and she went in the other direction.

It was midnight. Mr.Toko was still busy some where. I was feeling sleepy so I said "oyasumi nasai" (good night) to Mrs.Toko and went to sleep. But I asked her to wake me up when Mr. Toko came back home. It was around 1 a.m., Mrs. Toko knocked on the door and called "Guna-san, Mr. Toko is home."

A Japanese person uses ‘San’ after the name for respect. I exchanged greetings and gifts with Mr. Toko.

He looked like he was 35, but in reality he was 60 years old. He was a mobile phone carrying priest of a Buddhist shrine going to people’s houses using his car and praying for their sake.

Next morning we went to the Emaotanaka’s house to pray. Every day Mr.Toko had to travel around to pray. In the premises of their house, a big Shokoji Buddhist Temple of Shinshu-Otani-Sect drew in family religious rituals and prayers. Different people from their area used to come to visit the shrine.

I felt that even when these people were too busy, they were generous enough to invite me into their home. I helped dry clothes, even putting my clothes in the washing machine and learnt how to operate it. Mrs.Toko helped me. It was then that I invited her to visit Nepal and stay at my house and they were happy.

At noon that day, we went to visit the local club. They were busy preparing for the festival, which was to please elderly people. They were busy practising Bon Odori-a traditional Japanese dance. Then it was off again to the Kitano family, where we tasted popular Japanese dishes like "Tempura" and sipped "Sake"(wine). My love for Sake really inspired my host Mr.Toko. He also offered some Sake to me later.

At mid-night I went to bed. In the morning I had to say goodbye to this family. I wanted to walk around the nearest river basin. But I couldn’t wake up early enough. Around 7 am, it was hot and humid outside the house. Two days had created much love and affection between myself and the Toko family. Even they were not ready to say goodbye. But we were bound to separate.

Mrs. Toko took some photographs with me and said to me with love, "my family in Nepal". I was overwhelmed. I waved my hand like a schoolboy who was leaving his house to go away to a hostel. Once again I touched the cats and looked a while at the dogs, the Buddhist shrine, and the lovely house and bid "Sayonara!"

Poem

Midnight Gaze Kathmandu

It is a warm gaze
A horse ready to fly
lifts proudly on the mountain ridge
Fasten with a steep bridle
Under this midnight sunshine
An ascetic’s
solitude handstand
This midnight sunshine
An abstract ray of homesickness
Snowy peaks lurk afar
Mirror the deep sky
A hesitating girl, a thick forest
A goddess of elegance
Temples trembling
Long flags fluttering
Oh, another genesis
Another progeny
Your abstruse gaze
Emerges from the burning magma
No sound released
Your tear drops coagulate into a canal
Pilot my ark and my escape
Your breasts rising up
with the displacement of the mountain chains
The golden olive leaves pervasive
It is midnight
The singing hours
Outside Kathmandu
On top of a high mountain
Thousands of laligurans blossom
Inner city
lamp lights wane
The exodus of pedestrians
It is midnight
The dreaming hours
alongside the ramparts a drummer wanders
It is midnight
with my illusive gaze
Its single sunshine brilliant
All the city gates locked
- Huang lei

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