Environmental Lesson from Lo Manthang

By Prakash Khanal

It is around 6:30 in the morning. An old lady comes with her locally made caned basket and a broom picking up all the plastic and other litter that can be seen on the streets of Lo Manthang in Upper Mustang. The streets of Lo Manthang are not very clean but she also sweeps them and nicely tucks the plastics that she collected from the streets.

The environmental resource conservation, awareness and training programmes initiated some years ago by Annapurna Conservation Area Project (ACAP) seems to have started to bear fruits in the Upper Mustang region. Lo Manthang looks cleaner despite its earthen roads, mud and wood houses, narrow lanes, horses and cattle plying on them, stack of their forages and the heaps of barley dumped on the road sides after the annual harvest. The tiny Himalayan hamlets of Kagbeni, Tangbe, Chhuksang, Chele, Samar, Ghemi, Tamagaon, Charang, Lo Manthang, Chhoser in Upper Mustang, each has a separate religious and sociocultural identity.

The houses in Chhoser, around two hours walk from Lo Manthang on the east, present their distinct identities. Cave houses half-embedded into the mountain slopes with their main entrances, windows and gates seem to be structures stuck on the mountain sides from outside. These cave dwellings look interesting and cozy. Caves and holes on the ridges of the Kaligandaki river are common sights between Eklobhatti, Muktinath and in Lo Manthang area but cave houses built on hill slopes at Chhoser are far more superior and different.

Clean blue sky, swinging trees, some seasonal green vegetables in the kitchen gardens are becoming part of Upper Mustang, thanks to ACAP. Pointing to a small kitchen garden filled with leafy vegetables in Bhansar, about two and half hours walk from Lo Manthang on the way to Nepal-China border, Binod Basnet, conservation officer of ACAP, said that gradually they are encouraging local people to grow more vegetables and consume more of them as a regular diet with their meals.

"Vegetables didn’t exist in Lo Manthang before we came here," said Basnet. The staple diet of people at Lo Manthang normally includes meat and potatoes".

Bhansar actually is a symbolic entry point into Nepal. A well built but emptied customs office indicates the beginning of the Nepalis territory which is actually around 7 km from the real border. There is no one manning this Bhansar customs post and Tibetan Khampas use the huge ground behind it to establish their tinted shops filled with daily goodies, including cheap Chinese beer, wine, alcohol, torchlight, thermos-flasks, shoes, jackets, well decorated hand carved Tibetan furniture. People in the area choose the goods that they want first and Khampa traders come later and fix the price of each item at their will.

The casualty of the Chinese trade is not only the Nepalis economy but also the Nepalis environment of the Himalayan region. The one thing that one notices on reaching Lo Manthang is broken glasses, tin cans and plastic packs of biscuits and noodles flying here and there. ACAP faces uphill task of educating people about environmental and health hazards associated with food habits.

"It is the children who break the bottles," said Surendra Bista who operates a hotel at Lo Manthang. Looking at the broken coloured glasses on the street sides, fields and in the garbage dumps constructed by the local people, one can easily imagine that people in Upper Mustang are getting into the habit of drinking more beer than Chang and Tomba, their local drinks. "People drink these cheap beer a lot these days, more than they drink other local drinks and leave the bottles here and there," agrees Bista. Yam Bahadur Gurung, office in charge of ACAP which has been responsible for the sustainable development and management of the natural resources of over 7000 square kilometres of wild natural resources, including Himalayan sanctuary, trekking route and villages in Nepal including parts of Mustang district, is aware of the growing problems associated with environmentally unfriendly habits of the local people.

"The several trucks come daily up to Lo Manthang," said Gurung, "In fact we also use these trucks to transport timber from Tibet for the restoration work at the ancient Thuptchen monastery". Gurung is selling empty bottles and cans back to China for recycling purposes. "Negotiations have been going on which will help us get rid of the problem and also bring back some cash in return".

The face of Lo Manthang is gradually changing. The dirt road extended from Tibet passing through Nechung to the medieval settlement of Lo Manthang was completed some months ago. It has started to show its impact not only on the local economy but also on the local environment and community as a whole.

One major visible impact that Lo Manthang would have from the road and increase in the traffic is already underway. Lo Manthang is known as a medieval walled city. The mud and stone wall surrounding the tiny settlement of around 180 houses and 900 people will crumble with the increase in vibration caused by the traffic. A portion of the mud wall has already fallen which needs immediate repair.

"Some repair was done in 1985 when King Birendra had visited Lo Manthang and I request His Majesty for some support," said Jigme Tandrul Palbar Bista, the king of Mustang who have bought two power-tillers to till the land and to transport goods from the other side of the river. "We know that the trucks and vehicles coming to Lo Manthang will create serious question on its identity that is why we have suggested not to bring the trucks and other vehicles within Lo Manthang city". The king of Mustang and his son has suggested that vehicles should be taken to hills on the northern outskirts of Lo Manthang.

People at Lo manthang seem very happy that they have now road access to China and that their daily necessities could be supplied from China, if not from their own country.

Their dependence on Khampa traders and Chinese goods is increasing day by day as they are being introduced to consumerism and new products.

People like Gurung and Basnet from ACAP are worried about reversing this trend. They are concentrating on training people to grow vegetables and other products, which they could sell to Chinese to balance the trade deficit.

Upper Mustang is a remote area. It is out of reach of government’s presence and development activities. Although still restricted for foreigners but they visit the area in abundance. Lo Manthang and many other Himalayan settlements are like corps left for cultures, which they can tear at their will. The half-fallen police post manned by a few police personnel is not enough to stay guard and protect this area. In such a gloomy situation what counts is the effort made by Gurung, Basnet and other staff of ACAP.

This area has enormous potential for antisocial elements to conduct their traffickings in any item that they require. It is the same area from where Karmapa and his gang quietly slipped into Nepal and then into India, embarrassing Nepalis government. What this area now needs is strong government presence in the form of Army and police. In winter all the young and rich migrate to warmer places like Pokhara and Kathmandu or go to India for business but ACAP staff stay on their duty. ACAP has been able to do many positive things in the area. Topmost among them is create awareness and train local people that they should try to protect their environment by planting trees, grow green vegetables and other products for cash. The message has penetrated to the masses but what they now need is more support from the government.

A voyA voyage from Fresno University to photo creation

By Maina Dhital

While returning to this country after doing graduation in agricultural engineering from the US, he had not even imagined that one day he would be a great professional photographer. But his dedication towards photography led him to the peak of success.

Mani Lama, a renowned photographer of Nepal, chose this profession unexpectedly. He says, "When I got a chance to study in the US, I then opted to do agriculture engineering so that I could contribute to promoting agriculture in my country." He did graduation from the Fresno State University of California in 1976. Then, he tried to join agriculture project after graduation. But he couldn’t get any appropriate job for his academic qualification.

"I kept on searching for a job for two years but all went in vain", he recalls the bad experience of his past days as getting a government job depended on nepotism and it still exists. Even the private sector is not free from this malady. Then, his interest to work in agriculture sector as an engineer disappeared for ever.

Meanwhile, his hobby to take photographs put him in the contact of contemporary photographers. A few of his photographs were sold in the market. "While studying in the US, I had attended photography class for two months, so I had a little experience in this field. It also helped me to make my career", said Mani. He considered photography a better career and opted it as a profession. Since then, he has never looked back. He just ran after it as a professional photographer.

His joint exhibition with Korean journalist Kim Hong Sung was held at Siddhartha Art Gallery recently. The display named "People and Red" by Mani and "Wind Horse" by Kim comprised about 50 photos together. It is the combined effort of Mani after a long gap where his solo and joint exhibitions were held 6 years ago. "Due to lack of time I couldn’t hold it, but I have been participating in group exhibitions regularly", he adds.

While asking him about the people and the colour red, he says that since he loves taking photographs of people, the colour red naturally comes with it. Especially, as Nepal is so colourful, the colour red is an integral part of Nepali culture. It is found in religion, celebrations and in clothes people wear. This makes photographic opportunity very attractive with the right light, people and the colour red, snap goes the camera.

Mani is a pioneer for postcards in Nepal. He started his career with postcard business. He used to capture cultural and natural beauties for postcards which were popular abroad, especially among tourists. Unfortunately, the 1990 political crisis snatched that business too. "Then, I started freelancing ", said Mani.

He has been regularly photographing for UNICEF, ACTION AID, UNDP, FAO, Save the Children (UK), WHO and GTZ on contracts. His solo Colour & Black/White Photographs were published in ‘Nepal, the Himalayan Kingdom’, 1996 by Rolli Books. Mani has made more than 3 hundred different kinds of postcards, greetings and posters. He is also involved in magazines, calendars, brochures and catalogues for local and international markets along with a wide range of photographic experience during travel throughout Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan, China, Pakistan, India, Burma and Thailand.

During his long journey from the Fresno University to photo creation, Mani has projected himself as a unique photographer. Even at the age of 54, he is very energetic and full of dedication towards his profession.

He defines photography – "It is an art of capturing the things at the right moment, right light and proper place". The uniqueness of Mani Lama is to capture any object easily through the lens of camera giving the impression of vividness. During his two decades of career, Mani has exposed more than one lakh film rolls.

Landscape, documentary and portraits are his subjects of interest in photography. "I prefer NECON in small format (135mm) and Pentex for medium format (120mm)", informed Mani. He generally uses the lens of 20 mm in wide and 300 mm in telly.

According to him, Nepalese photographers could have not met international standard. However, he is optimistic towards the future for standard photography in this country. Since new comers are mushrooming in this field, he suggests them to focus on quality rather than quantity. According to Mani, the person should have the ability to compose the thing, arrange the light and right equipment while taking photos. Only by hanging a camera, one cannot be a professional. Mani adds, he/ she also needs dedication. He seeks the need of advanced photography training from skilled photographers to compete foreign photographers. Most of the new comers are working without proper training, who are incapable of producing quality photographs, claims Mani.

Mani has been honoured by Nepal Department of Tourism Award, 1985, ACCU/UNESCO, Japan "The Family" 1993 Honourable Mention, Alliance Francis, Nepal First Prize, 1994 and Nepal Photographic Society 1992.

Mani, the father of two daughters, loves listening Jazz music, travelling and so on. The French photographer late Cartier Bresson is one of his favourite. In Nepal, Mani is technically impressed by Shreedhar Manandhar. He likes Narendra Shrestha among the new comers.

Dhanushadham Favourite fair of rural women

By Ram Bharos Kadari 'Bharmar'

Festival and fair are very important in our culture. Such fairs have an additional value for buying things at a place and getting together with relatives after a pretty long time.

Many fairs are arranged in Janakpur. Ram Nawami and Vivah Panchami are the two greatest fairs. Similarly, Gaurka is held on the meet point of an important river and Bharadutia is also an interesting fair.

Two women encounter, embrace each other and begin to cry in rhyme bitterly. Their weeping in dialogue-form indicates their agonies of life.

It is not unnatural for strangers to think that some tragic events might have happened in their lives. But as a matter of fact such episodes happen on every Sunday after the day when the sun enters the Tropic of Capricorn.

It is said that one part of the mighty (mythological) bow of Lord Shiv, split by Supreme Ram, had fallen here. That Lord Shiv had given to Parashwcam through Janak as it was brought for self selection is yet present and pilgrims are crowded to see it which takes the form of Dhanush fair.

Pilgrims here after worshipping at the Dhanusha main temple, worship at Ram Shiv temple and after that they eat too much of beaten rice with curd and sugar lump.

Some bring such food items like bread, vegetables, beaten rice and curd with them. It is the tradition to offer a bundle of brinjals to the mighty bow of Lord Shiv.

Offering a bundle of brinjals fulfils desires of god, is a popular belief among the people of Mithila. We can see a lot of people selling such bundles of having two brinjals in a bamboo stick.

This fair has a great importance for Mithilas. Women are not restricted to go out and visit the fair. Guardians also allow their daughters and daughter-in-laws to attend this fair. As a matter of fact this fair is the meeting place for them after every year. Every relative is informed many days before she meets at certain time and place with sisters, daughters or mothers on the day of makar.

This meeting is perhaps done in the middle of ‘Makar'. Middle Makar comes after two fairs. This is the most crowded place.

Selection of bride grooms by singing songs is also arranged here on Saturday night. Likewise, orange, cassia, dog, khukuri, blanket, etc are brought from mountains to be sold here. Clothes, utensils, shoes, sandals or slippers, salt, oil, sauce, etc are brought from Terais. People buy and sell their daily necessities.

Although the fair does not show its originality yet Dhanusha fair throws light of rural life. People buy cassia and sauce for the whole year. From here, women do not forget to purchase clay pots, iron utensils and other domestic utensils and tangerine.

In order to make the Dhanusha fair interesting, fish pie, mutton and wine are also sold. At the time of fair, the means of entertainment -- circus, magicians, dance parties -- are organised. Every one enjoys watching women swinging in Ram Hilora (dangle). Although pilgrims visit Janakpur all the year round, it is also a practice of worshipping after bathing in the tank west of Dhanusha. There is a great hostelry for pilgrims and other facilities offered here.

There is a fence put around the Dhanusha forest but tender trees of catech have been cut down which reminds a conflict between man and nature. Dhanusha is linked with national high way. Janakpur-Dhanusha road is under construction. Bus goes to Dhanushadham in summer through this road.

Gandhian at home

By Subas Risal

Gandhi once said that self-reliance is key for the country to forge ahead in different fronts and this is what exactly Urmila Upadhyaya has been advocating on for almost two decades.

Sixty-one year old and still going strong. Urmila whose inspiration stems from a great personality like Mohan Das Karamchand Gandhi has still lot more to offer in the social service arena of the country.

Weaver, energetic painter and ceramist Urmila didn’t have a slightest idea on entering the school of Gandhi in Wardha, India that she would end up in home country devoting her life in the field of social work.

"I was eight years old when I joined the school of Gandhi in Warda, India. The school taught me that maximum satisfaction can be gained through helping poor and the needy section of the society. It also taught me that people should be self-reliant producing their own needs and utilizing them." Says Urmila.

The establishment of Nepal’s first and only craft school, Kalaguthi in 1983 was a dream come true for her. The training institute which is based on Gandhi’s principle of equality, self-reliance and service has been providing modern and advanced training in various textile and crafts making skills to the poor and the needy ones.

"After I did my schooling, my only dream was to establish something which would help the underprivileged section of the country for their survival," Urmila adds. "Those who graduate from the school are expected to go back to their villages to set up their own cottage industries."

"We only allow those students who belong to the downtrodden section and who hail from the remote parts of the country." Says Urmila.

Around 10,000 underprivileged women and youths have already graduated from the school. Some have even set up their own training institutes across the country while some remain in the school as trainers.

"It has been a great experience working here in the institute. I came here as a student and end up being a teacher," says Kamala Bhattarai who hails from Gorkha district and who has been in the school for 8 years. "After four course on weaving I have been working here as a trainer," adds Bhattarai.

Urmila’s husband, Krishna Murari Garg, former professor of Mathematics at the University of Alberta, Canada has been a great support in establishing the school.

"I have invested every bit of penny that earned in the university for establishing the school," says Krishna. "I thought why not invest the hard-earned money on something that is being established for some noble cause."

Urmila was now busy with the exhibition in Kalaguthi, Lalitpur district that last November for a month to the public. The exhibition had all the functional materials like bed cover and cushion cover woven and sewn by the students of the school on display.

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