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Kathmandu, Sunday, March 17, 2002  Chaitra 04,  2058.
H E A D L I N E

Memories of Singapore

The land continued to not only amaze me, but also convince that, it is determination and dedication that enables you to grow and prosper and then become an entity that allows you to have a say in the international scenario, writes Sanchita Regmi Joshy

I had heard a lot about this island nation. About its technology driven system, about it being a "fine" city, where fine is slapped for offences big and small, about its system-based administration. All these might be found in varying degrees in other parts of the world as well, but what struck me most was its rise from a small trading island to its awakening in the second world war to its prominence in the global economic scenario. I was about to come face to face with reality that would allow me to compare my perceptions of this island that is Singapore.

Our choice of taking a cruise to the Thien Hock Keng temple, was a strange co-incidence. It would allow us a panoramic view of the modern Singapore from the very place that played such a vital role in its development: its port. We would then admire the 160-year-old temple and its unique feature. The wooden structures and woodcarvings were built and assembled without using any nails.

Our next stop would be amazing in its own way. One of Singapore’s major attractions, spread across 20 hectares of land is the Jurong Bird Park, which is also the largest bird park in all of Southeast Asia. Home to over 8,000 birds of 600 species it boasts of, among other things, one of the largest Hornbill collections in the world.

A grand product has been created, where otherwise, nothing worth mentioning would have found its place. I found it extremely difficult not to compare what I was seeing and what we could see in abundance in my homeland. In this sub-tropical climate, I could see the effort taken to collect birds from all across the globe, the effort to recreate forests that would otherwise not be found. Back home, with a little effort and vision, we could easily create many such wonderful products. On the return journey, we visited the night safari. As the world’s premier night zoo, this is an experience that cannot be recommended enough. We had taken a tram to go through, as this was the easiest way to familiarise ourselves with the large grounds.

People were even going by foot on one of the three walking trials, to experience the park set in eight geographical zones. Highly entertaining and educational animal show known as the ‘Creatures of the Night’, featuring a cougar, binturong, civet and an otter was on show. And there was no better way to end the day: a lavish romantic dinner in the forest setting.

We were told several times that if you do not visit Sentosa Island, you have not seen Singapore. So, off we were, riding towards the cable car station at Mount Faber. Next day, the one place we couldn’t afford to miss while in Singapore was Sentosa Island. This ride provided us with a stunning aerial view of the world’s busiest port and the central business district or rather the World Trade Centre.

Underwater world was one of the highlights of Sentosa. Home to over 2,500 marine creatures of over 250 species, it is indeed one of Asia’s most popular and exciting oceanariums offering education and entertainment to visitors, young and old alike.

Going around in the 83-meter long acrylic tunnel allowed us to see the "fish eye view" of marine life, without a wet suit!

The area around the tunnel is home to great shoals of fish, prowling predators and a host of other creatures that occupy the ocean depths. We found ourselves eye-to-eye with poisonous stingrays, high-voltage electric eels, notorious piranhas, and terrifying sharks.

And then, there was the Dolphin Lagoon at Central Beach. The Lagoon is home to Indo-Pacific Humpbacked Dolphins and is the first of it’s kind in Asia. At ‘Meet the Dolphin’ sessions, we could watch those Dolphins at their natural best, spy hopping, tail flapping! and being their usual playful selves. We could see kids especially enjoying wading in the shallow waters to touch and feed those wonderful and highly intelligent mammals.

For those interested in the history of Singapore, a visit to the wax museum, in Sentosa allows you to see how the country became what it is today. The land continued to not only amaze me, but also convince that it is determination and dedication that enables you to grow and prosper and then become an entity that allows you to have a say in the international scenario.

Those who saw the place at the end of the Second World War would certainly be surprised at what they see today.The Suntec City is an architectural symbol of high technology and metaphysics. It is actually designed like a giant hand with 45 storey-office towers representing the fingers of the hand. While the Singapore International Convention Centre represents the thumb. In the palm of this hand lies a precious ring from which fortune flows, the fountain of wealth. This fountain is the world’s largest; with abase area of 1,683 square metres.

Water shoots up 30 meters. According to the Chinese culture, water is one of the most powerful elements of nature and the inward flowing water of the Fountain of Wealth represents richness pouring into the country.

We were lucky enough to be there at the time of Chinese New Year, which is one of the most dramatic, stimulating and colourful festivals of Singapore. For two full weeks the people keep themselves busy to celebrate the Lunar New Year with a variety of happenings.

A walk through the traditional bazaar during the New Year allowed us to enjoy the series of exciting street entertainments. We enjoyed a wide range of festive goodies such as home-baked tarts and cookies, barbecued meat, waxed duck Chinese sausages and titbits on our way. Some of the local favorites in old-fashioned dining styles we enjoyed were hot succulent barbecued chicken, and lamb on skewers, eaten with spicy peanut gravy, mouth-watering seafood dishes from barbecued prawns and spicy crabs to our favorite grilled fish

Amazingly, to most Chinese, asking ‘have you eaten?’ is the same as asking ‘How are you?’ This is because eating or rather eating well is a way of life for the Chinese people. It is almost akin to a birthright. One thing worth noting was that the Chinese are particular about showing chopsticks to the companions in playful manners.

Singapore is indeed a shopper’s paradise. We were greeted by the bustling atmosphere upon arrival in almost all the shops we went to and enjoyed the experience. Well, until we added up the money we spent at the end of the day!

Contrary to its island status, it could take weeks to fully appreciate what Singapore has to offer and to understand what Singapore means.


Invisible Sufferers

Five percent of the total national population constitutes elderly people. The present figures stand at I million. And this figure is added by 20 thousand every year, writes U Shrestha 

The other day early in the morning, I saw a large number of people gather at our old neighbour Indramaya’s house. Something unusual must have happened, I thought. And my guess came true. Aged Bhimmaya, (Indra Kumari’s daugher- in- law, also old lady) had died on that very morning after a long illness.

My eyes searched for the feeble oldest lady, Indra Kumari, amid the crowd. Finally, I located her. There she was, lean and thin, serious standing silently with no tears in her eyes. Sometimes, she looked up at the relatives who came to console the bereaved family and attend the funeral procession. The presence of frail figure was completely unnoticed there.

Indra Kumari and Bhimmaya, both were living with other family members. They had been unwelcome and neglected ever since the death of Bhimmaya’s husband, a senior male member of the family.

With latter’s death, Indra Kumari missed one of her closest companions with whom she shared her joys and sorrows. She, did not cry nor mourn when Bhimamaya died "She is lucky to have died " was her remark as she laments for being alive". Why didn’t death put her icy hand on an old woman like me instead?" she questioned.

" Life with family is more like a hell " she opens her heart. Tears stream down from hallow bony cheeks -an untold story, a living picture of tragic life of an aged woman.

A large number of aged people today are leading lives like Indra Kumari. Being a closed and conservative society, they prefer to remain silent rather than to open their heart for fear of social stigma and loosing family support. They are viewed as unproductive and have become highly dependent.

With degradation of social values and norms, culturally rich societies like ours where elderly people were once the symbols of wisdom and vision are no more respectable figures. Father’s and mother’s days are observed but they are all formalities.

"It is disgusting to see people ignoring and neglecting their own creators or roots who sacrificed and gave all their lives for their sake" says Upma Sharma, a member of Day Care Centre for Senior Citizens at Thapathali, run by women’s wing of Thapathali Jan Kalayan Centre

"TV and cheap films are the major causes leading to deteriorating social norms and values" she blames.

Citing the miseries of elderly people Gopal Bhutani, a cine artist in a TV interview rightly said" I fear nothing but ageing"

An 80-year-old woman at the centre says how she prefers to come all along from Kopundole to the centre on foot rather than ask family for money.

In a country like Nepal, where family is only the source of care and support in the absence of state social security, aged people suffer enormously. However, changes in family structure, the declining numbers of children and the increasing numbers of women who go out to work have weakened the family as a care institution.

Five percent of the total national population constitutes elderly people. The present figures stand at I million. And this figure is added by 20 thousand every year. The figure is expected to double in next five years if the present trend persists.

As the group constitutes a small fraction of the total population, no serious attention is ever paid. To invisible sufferers, the silent figures thus slip unnoticed from every national planning. They are not seen as a group that is worthy of attention of researchers and analysts.

The government has tried to provide them relief by paying monthly allowance of Rs 100 but has failed following its irregularity and moreover low amount. "What’s the use of Rs 100 when the price of every thing is skyrocketing?" asks Shanta Sharma, coordinator of the Day Care Centre for Senior Citizens

"They will be more benefited if more old age homes were set up instead" she says ‘ The utmost need at the moment is periodical health care centre to check up their health as many of them have poor health" she says

Indira Manandhar, Founder Member of Boudha Old Age Homes at Banepa, (established 2055) notes that in the absence of updated official record, several eligible old people are deprived of this privilege too. Thus undistributed amount are usually manipulated, she adds. ‘For the first time, the government lends its ear to old people i.e. in fifth nine-year plan. That allotted 38 lakh rupees to render medical service and bed reservation in hospitals for the aged people." she said. "But amazingly, before the project is taken up, the allotted amount vanished " she said. "Property right, therefore, should be based on will in the country like ours, not on parental rights in order to save aged people from being social victims ", she said, who had seen blues of the old people with naked eyes. Citing the poor picture of the aged people, both Shanta Shama and Manandhar view the need of public awareness and interaction programmes to restore eroding social values and norms for harmony and peace.

Some efforts have been made for social security of aged people but all that at individual level on humanitarian ground. Today, there are about 80 old age homes in the country set up at individuals’ effort and more are in the offing. However due to lack of fund and poor concept most of them are in poor condition.

But they are not the solution of the problem, according to some quarters who think will have negative impact instead on the economically poor society like ours. Factors like love, affection, and responsibility that tie the family knot firmly will exist no more. Ageing is inevitable and irreversible.

The only solution to the problem is to love them, encourage not to lose interest in the joy of life. Andrezej Szezypiorski, a famous Polish literary figure says " love is the only guarantee for a better future".

They are people with vision and the source of knowledge. It will therefore be wise enough if we could tap their knowledge and experience for which they travelled so long and put in our work for our benefit and learn lesson from their past to achieve a desirable goal without undergoing any difficulties.

Whenever I go around the city I feel like living in primitive society not in 21tst century. Seeing the things unchanged and situation further deteroriating day by day, similar feeling could perhaps come to any citizens of this country. if I am not mistaken.

A relative of mine after a visit to Australia rightly says that it would take more than 200 years to reach the present state of Australia for Nepal. Despite living in age of information, we life far behind . it has brought some hange in our liking and thinking, a way of life style has remained as in past, The way of work style is the same .

In fact , we are having relaxed life here . It will of course be nice feeling for any one to have an experience of primitive life style in the 21st century.

In primitive age, as we know, nature had a dominant role to play in leading the lives. People used to live in cave, eat things grown on the earth for survival. Life, in a sense, was no better than that of beasts. The age, therefore , is the Age of Darkness.

Quite Unimaginable life. Is not it ? Assessing the present situation and struggle for survival amidst the scarcities and poverty it may be said life no better than theirs

World changed over the years following a cumulative effect of technology so are the people. But our problems remained unsolved and traditional problems untouched. Time went on as its routine but traditional problems still held of us. Neither any sign of getting rid of these problems is at sight.

Problems like scarcity, dearness, unemployment are not new to this country and these problems are less likely to get rid of by judging present political situation and government of the country. Despite living in the age of information, we have to live in darkness.

In the middle of night, Krishna Bahadur, suddenly was awaken with a surprise and fear. Somebody had just attacked him with a stick and ran way. Unbelievable. Who was that man ? he thought. A respected man like him known for good deeds and justice, rarely have enemy.


Lake which supports only the good

This great blue lake was crystal clear, warm and overwhelmingly charming. No empty mineral water bottles, any plastic bags and nothing to pollute. There were thatch-roofed houses by the lake with mud plaster, writes Shiva Raj Shrestha 'Malla'

He was young and in business those days and I was studying in Trichandra College. For the first time I heard about Phewa Lake in Pokhara from Manik Sahu, whose daily routine was to fly in and out of the makeshifst Pokhara Airport. I asked him how big is the lake? Bigger than Tundikhel? He laughed and said much bigger. I wanted to visit Pokhara and see this lake. But the only way to reach Pokhara was by walking for 7 days or fly in that old Dakota. I could not make it in late fifties or even in early sixties.

When the Chinese road (as the Prithvi Rajmarg used to be called those days) was completed in 1973, I could not wait any longer and visited Pokhara and even saw shadows of Great Annapurna Range in the lake in a moonlit night. The Thakali Bhattis [serving great ‘Dal-bhat’ cooked in dead-wood fired ‘Chulos’ along with ‘Sukuti’ (fried and spiced dried meat) and Raksi- the fire-water] were most charming centres in and around downtown Mahendrapul. But the life in the ‘Lake-side’ was totally different.

This great blue lake was crystal clear, warm and overwhelmingly charming. No empty mineral water bottles, any plastic bags and no-nothing to pollute. There were thatch-roofed houses by the lake with mud plaster. Some were even oval shaped. Lakeside Baidam was really a traditional and charming village. The lake had few dugout canoes. Even, in the afternoon, one could hear mating calls of a tigress in the great forest just across the lake. To hear the alarm calls of barking deer was common. The north-western (up-stream) part of the lake was full of water-birds and I even saw great, aeroplane like vultures, probably with the wing span of four and half feet, hovering around over the lake shores along with other exotic birds of prey. They used to spend whole afternoon across the lake, from where they did swimming, fishing, smoking, singing and painting.

Once late evening, I was enjoying Sukuti and Raksi in a ‘Restaurant’ with bamboo-partition, thatched roof and Jhallars (red-blue cotton frills which were in fashion), when I asked the semi- blind owner Shainla-Ba (everybody’s third uncle) about the depth of the lake. He said it is very-very deep and even has a whole village under the water. What? I said, do you think I am drunk already, with just two glasses of your firewater? Please do not give ‘Hawadari’ (castle in the air). He became serious. I saw wrinkles of wisdom in his old face, glittering by the side of the fireplace. After some thoughtful pause, he said, I mean the ruins of a village. My ancestors, who had been telling this story to their children, cannot be lying. There must be. It must be true.Tell us, do tell us the story you heard from your grandfather, I requested. It was my great grand father in fact, he said, who had told me this story when I was a small child. We are here in Baidam (lakeside) for may be twenty or more generations.

There was a village, some where, near the lake. Farmers were rich. Their rice fields were on the banks of Harpan Khola. (One can even now see, this stream bringing down thousands of tons of silt in the ‘upstream’ part of the lake). He pushed fire-sticks in the open fireplace, made the fire burning brilliantly, drank his Raksi in one big gulp, rubbed his lips with the sleeves of his shirt and said yes, Harpan Khola was very deep those days. People were really prosperous, but very mean, very selfish... almost all of them. In one wet and stormy late night, a hermit came from the hills and begged for food and shelter to spend the night in that village by Harpan Khola. Not possible- No, no, go-away you dirty old beggar- was the answer he got. At last, at the edge of the village, one old widow opened her door for this wet, hungry and miserable hermit. Said she...here I have only flour of millet left with me. I shall make the fire burning in my heart. Make some ‘Chapaties’ for yourself. Early next morning it was still raining cats and dogs, the hermit waked-up the old lady and said take these Chapaties wrapped and tied in a piece of cloth, go away in the hills now..immediately. Open this packet of Chapatis only after tonight. Tomorrow morning will be different. Believe me, I am a re-incarnation of Lord Shiva. Now go- away. And the hermit vanished in her thin air.

That night, the earth trembled, the hills fell down and the flooded river was blocked and a furious lake formed sinking that unfortunate village. It was raining heavily for the whole night. No body survived except that kind old lady. In the morning sun came shining.

The peaks of Annapurna changed colours from pitch black to ash and then to red-gold and white. From the hilltop, she could not see her village. All she saw was a now peaceful, deep and most beautiful lake.

During the course of my consultancy work, I had to visit Pokhara very often. The fantastic treks to Ghandrung, and Ghodepani always gave me pleasure in life.

But this lake, the great Phewa was my first love. And my crazy dream to find a sunken ghost village in its depth.

We were designing a world class cable stay bridge over river Karnali and my company was the local Associate of Steinmen of New York and Sir William Halcrow of UK. They had brought very high technology gadgets.

He said, oh my big brother, you are too much romantic for a consultant. Nevertheless, I am interested to verify the Profile Map of the lake prepared by FAO consultants some years ago and also see where the big schools of fish are. After a day or two, when there was sunshine, we took the official (and the only permitted) motorboat and my sonograph and criss-crossed the length of 7-8 kilometres of the lake.

After the whole day’s work we could confirm that there is a (river like-very long) gorge under the lake, with the average depth of 30-35 m just across Baraha Temple Island. The northern section of the lake is full of silt, with the average depth of 6-8 m only.

Suddenly my sonar equipment started giving excited bip-bip-bip sound in an area in between the Fish farm and Baraha Temple Island. Swar was excited, he said oh yes, a big, really big school of ‘Mahasheer’ fish may be. But wait a minute. No, it was not moving. Why not moving?

We were puzzled. I ventured to say that it might be the sunken village. He laughed but agreed to send his divers under the water. They did not see the ruins of a sunken village. But they did see huge trunks and branches of sunken trees.

Some events of very destructive earthquakes in Kathmandu Valley are recorded in ancient chronicles. One such devastating earthquake in the month of July of 1255 AD is recorded in Gopal Raj Vansabali which killed one third of the subjects of Newari King Abhaya Malla.

Pokhara could also have suffered this earthquake shocks. It is quite likely that the hills on the south-eastern (narrow out-let) part of the lake could have fallen and blocked Harpan Khola. If you look at the hill slopes in the ‘Dam-site’, you can even see the rock faces unearthed by huge landslides in the unknown past.


SECOND-PAGE | RECOLLECTIONS


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